Kazbek is the second most popular five-thousand-meter mountain in the Caucasus after Elbrus. The mountain attracts about 10,000 climbers every year. Kazbek is shrouded in myths and legends, like many mountains in the Caucasus.
The Georgian name is “mountain Mkinvari” and is translated as “mountain with an ice peak”; the Ossetian name Urskhokh literally means “white mountain”. Kazbek is a sleeping volcano that can wake up at any moment. The last eruption was in the 7th century BC.
According to one of the legends, a monk of the Betlemi monastery committed a fall from grace. As punishment for this, God built us a mountain as a monastery, which was named Kazbek. The trek includes a visit to this holy place located at an altitude of 3.8 km. According to another legend, it was to the top of this mountain that Prometheus was chained as punishment for helping people.
Climbing Kazbek is a fairly serious route with the use of crampons, an ice ax, and insurance. We have prepared several climbing options of varying difficulty for climbers.
- вdescent to Kazbek from Georgia. An easier option, there are shelters here and some things can be dropped off on horseback. Difficulty category 2А;
- climbing Kazbek from North Ossetia. Difficult trekking, with overnight stays in tents, all things on your own. Difficulty category 2B, for experienced climbers.
- There are also options for budget and VIP expeditions for each program.
If we compare two popular peaks, then Elbrus is physically more difficult than Kazbek. Восхождение на Казбек с юга, Georgia is more comfortable than the program from the north (North Ossetia), which involves a completely autonomous expedition without throwing things on horseback and shelters under the mountain.
Ascent from the South, Georgia
This is the so-called “classic” version of climbing to the top. The route passes through the Gergeti Glacier to the Weather Station shelter (Betlemi Hut). This route is easier and more comfortable than others. That is why it is recommended to start your first acquaintance with the mountain from this route. You can book this tour all year round. The program is suitable for even novice travelers, but requires good physical preparation. The difficulty of the route is 2A difficulty category. Successful climbing requires skill in moving with crampons and experience in self-restraint with an ice ax. All these skills can be acquired through training during acclimatization. Therefore, the main emphasis during preparation for climbing should be given to physical training and the selection of high-quality clothing and functional equipment.
The climb to Kazbek from Georgia can be divided into three parts:
The first stage is the transition from the village of Stepantsminda along the path, through the Gerteri glacier to the Meteorological Station. The climb is not difficult; at this stage, some of the things are carried by horses. Usually we break this transition into 2 days.
The second stage is acclimatization. For two days we walked radially above the Meteorological Station, training in crampons and with an ice ax on the glacier. During this time, the body gets used to the altitude.
The third stage is the assault on the mountain. The most difficult part of the route is the rocky path along the moraine, which gradually emerges onto the glacier. Part of the path is marked, but since the start on the day of the assault is around 3:00, it is easy to lose the trail in the dark. The experience of a guide on the mountain is very important, since the trail changes every year, it is very good if the guide has already been on the route this season. Above 3800 m the trail comes out onto the glacier, where we walk in bundles in order to protect ourselves from falling deeply into the cracks. From a height of 4300 a smooth climb to the top begins. A long traverse to the saddle between the two peaks of Kazbek, South and North. From the saddle, movement in a rope or along a rope railing depends on the condition of the slope and how bare the ice is on the slope.
Map of the ascent to Kazbek from the South
Rising from the North, North Ossetia
More experienced climbers have the opportunity to appreciate Kazbek from a different, wilder side. Climbing from the north is a little more difficult and requires previous experience of mountain trekking or climbing, for example Elbrus or Belukha, in addition to optimal physical fitness. However, with us all difficulties will be minimized, because our guide will create all the conditions for a comfortable and safe ascent.
Our journey begins from the village of Karmadon. Already at the beginning of the journey we will see an impressive panorama of the valley of the Genaldon River. This is perhaps one of the most photographed views in these parts. An important feature of the route to Kazbek from the northern side is its pristine nature. There are no mountain huts and shelters familiar to many tourists, there are no snowcats here, and you can only gain height on foot, and not with the help of a cable car. This is a completely self-contained hike, in which we immediately carry with us all the equipment necessary for the climb and spend the night in tents throughout the entire route.
Those who are not afraid of additional difficulties and hardships will have an excellent bonus in the form of thermal springs at an altitude of 2200 meters, where participants can relax after the ascent. Another undoubted advantage of climbing Kazbek from the north is the pristine beauty of this route. The entire program takes 9 days, you must be prepared to carry all personal equipment, food and part of the tent. On average, a backpack on this route weighs 17-22 kg.
We will see the most beautiful gorge of the Caucasus, as well as many other exciting places, the history of which the guide will be happy to tell you. During the program, participants will acquire the necessary skills to move on snowy and rocky slopes, skills in working with rope, and master working with a jumar.
Map of the ascent to Kazbek from the north
Сложность восхождения на Казбек:
Kazbek is not a technically difficult mountain, which is recommended for beginner climbers. The route from Georgia has a difficulty of 2A grade. Up to an altitude of 3600, the entire route can be walked in ordinary trekking boots, only to cross the Herteri glacier you will need crampons. Things can be given to the horse. Usually we split the transition from the foot of the mountain to the base camp at the Meteorological Station into two days in order to better acclimatize. After Height 3600, the moraine begins and we put on mountain boots, most of the climb up to 4300 is done without crampons, higher up a glacier with cracks begins where you need to put on the system and crampons and contact 3-4 people in a group. At the top there is a climb up a snow-ice slope, where you need to be careful and move with an ice ax. The program to Kazbek from Georgia lasts 8 days.
The route from the north (North Ossetia, Russia) has a difficulty level of 2B. The ascent to the base camp goes through the OZhD peak, the ascent starts from a height of 2700 m. Where the destroyed rocks come from. Part of the route has metal cables that allow you to adhere and belay through them. Here, too, after reaching the glacier from an altitude of 4200 m, we put on crampons and tie up. On Kazbek from the north there are two camps from which you can go to the top – 3500 m and 4200. We usually start from 4200. The program from the north lasts 10 days.
Climbing Kazbek Blitz
For experienced and acclimatized tourists, we offer a short program for climbing Kazbek – Kazbek blitz. In 4 days you can climb the mountain with a guide.
Other programs on Kazbek
We also offer you a climbing program Школа альпинизма в Чаухи + Казбек
Climbing season on Kazbek
Climbing Kazbek in summer
It is optimal to climb to the top in the period June-September, the weather is most favorable, and there is a minimum amount of snow in the mountains. However, you can climb in winter, we organize such tours, it’s just that during this period the requirements for the skills and physical fitness of climbers increase; experience in summer ascents of 4000 m and above is required.
Kazbek in May and on May holidays
One of the most popular periods for climbing Kazbek is the May holidays, thanks to the long weekend. The weather is no longer so severe, but still in the mountains the temperature regime is closer to winter, there is a lot of snow and you need to be prepared for sharp temperature fluctuations day and night, and precipitation.
Climbing Kazbek in autumn
The month of September is a period of relatively stable and warm weather on the mountain. October, November the weather is very changeable and the success of the event depends on luck and weather.
Kazbek in winter and New Year
In winter, the route from the north, Russia is not accessible and the only option to get to this peak is from Georgia. Winter ascent to Kazbek is a severe test and requires previous experience in climbing summer mountains at 4000-5000, experience in moving with crampons on a glacier, and mastering the basic technique of working with a rope and an ice ax. The temperature regime is -20…-35 C. In addition, there are strong winds. Very often the approach to the Weather Station shelter is covered in deep snow. You need to go in snowshoes. In addition, cracks often appear in the upper part of the mountain and areas of ice appear.
How to train before climbing Kazbek?
The best preparation for the mountains is a cross-country run of 8-10 km. The number of workouts per week should be at least 3-4 times. The duration of training at a low heart rate should be at least 1.5-2 hours, in addition to running, a warm-up, flexibility exercises and strength exercises are required. If you have not run before, then you should start with a small 2-3 km, gradually increasing the load. Some running training can be replaced with swimming, cycling, and for variety you can also add functional training and rock climbing. Ideally, start training 4-6 months before the start, maximum loads 60-30 days before the start. Two weeks before the start, ideally reduce the load to 0 and do only gymnastics.
For more information about training, also watch the video
How to choose a guide to Kazbek?
Before agreeing to any trip with a guide, you should ask about his experience: where he has been, in what areas, what are the maximum categories of hikes and climbs he has, has he been trained in mountain schools, does he have a rank in mountaineering and mountain tourism, an instructor’s certificate, has he completed training in guide schools; of course, reviews and recommendations, experience as a guide on a specific mountain and in general are important.
All our guides:
- experienced athletes, at least 1 category in mountaineering and mountain tourism;
- trained at mountain schools;
- regularly improve their skills, including in providing medical care in the mountains;
- study and undergo internships at international guide schools;
- At least 3 years of experience as a guide, there are real reviews.
Watch in more detail what you need to know about the guides to Kazbek video review!
Why you should choose ExtremeGuide’s Kazbek climbing program:
✅ Experience since 2008;
✅ More than 4,500 satisfied tourists who went camping with us;
✅ Experienced guides who know the “Caucasus like a home”;
✅ Group of up to 8 people with a guide for your comfort and friendly atmosphere. According to our observations, this is the ideal number of people on autonomous trips;
✅ There are 2 guides working with the group, 1 guide for 3-4 people;
✅ Help at all stages before the hike: general recommendations, checklists and training videos;
✅ High-quality food tailored to your wishes (vegetarian, food allergies, etc.).
✅ A well-thought-out acclimatization route;
✅ Mountaineering training;
✅ Quality equipment and tents;
✅ Accommodation in tents for 2 people;
✅ Own equipment rental;
✅ Thoughtful service and fair price. We tried to include the main costs along the route so that you do not rack your brains and think that you were “deceived”;
✅ Result guarantee: if for some reason you were unable to climb to the top, then climbing again is 20% lower.
Cost, price of climbing Kazbek?
Now there are a lot of offers on the Internet for climbing Kazbek, from very cheap to super expensive :). The price of climbing consists of many components.
Let’s start with the fact that climbing Kazbek cannot cost 200-300 EUR, if you see such a cost, then first you need to figure out what is included in this cost?
What’s included:
- transfer from/to Tbilisi or Minvoda
- power supply to the active part
- equipment rental
- transporting cargo on horseback
- tent rental
- accommodation in/near the weather station
- how many guides work with the group, how many people are in the group
- how many clients per guide
- additional service
- what qualifications do the guides have?
Safe number of participants per guide, ratio 1:3(4), IFMGA standard 1:2. If it is more, then it will be difficult to ensure proper safety and comfort. Larger groups are more likely to gather. Very often on the mountain you can meet a group of 10 people and one guide. There are possible options for a low tour price, with a good declared service, but this is also suspicious, most likely the guide “works for food”, does not have sufficient acclimatization, or his salary is low, and therefore low motivation, which also affects the quality of the services provided and safety.
In our programs you can choose the optimal service at an adequate price. Travel with us!
The most popular routes to Kazbek are from the North through the OZhD peak (Russia) and the classic route from the South (Georgia).
Clothes for climbing Kazbek
Clothing and equipment on Kazbek are quite specialized, the main thing you need to pay attention to is a storm clothing set (membrane pants, jacket), a warm jacket, mittens, a hat, warm pants, a set of thermal underwear, a fleece jacket, mountaineering boots, a warm sleeping bag, a rug and a backpack . If you are going to the mountains for the first time, then there is no need to buy everything at once; for example, climbing crampons, a helmet, a climbing harness, an ice ax and carabiners can be rented from us.
