Ascent of Matterhorn, (4478 m) by the Lyon ridge, Italy

There are 2 routes to the summit: from Switzerland, along the Hoernli ridge, and from Italy, along the Leon ridge. The first option is considered simpler and, therefore, more popular among climbers. The second option is considered more difficult, but this route is shorter.

Complexity:

difficult

Duration:

8 days

Height:

4478 m

The Matterhorn (4478 m) is one of the most famous mountains in the world, located on the border of Italy and Switzerland, 10 kilometers from the village of Zermatt (Switzerland).

There are two routes to the summit: from Switzerland, along the Hörnli ridge, and from Italy, along the Leon ridge. The first option is considered easier and therefore more popular among climbers. The second option is considered more difficult, but this route is shorter since the start of the assault on the summit begins at a height of 3800 m. Considering that you will go on the ascent with a professional guide, there is no global difference from which side to climb, since in the most difficult places, where you will need rock climbing skills, there are ropes that you simply hold on to with your hands.

The shape of the Matterhorn resembles a pyramid: four triangular faces meet at its top. The Matterhorn is the fifth highest mountain in the Alps, but in terms of climbing difficulty, this mountain has no equal. It is not surprising that the mountain remained unconquered until 1865.

In this program we offer you, under the guidance of our experienced guides, to climb one of the most famous and beautiful peaks on the planet.

As part of the acclimatization and training program, you will gain the missing experience and consolidate your old mountaineering skills.

Notes

This program is individual – during the ascent of the Matterhorn, one guide works with one client. If the clients are sufficiently trained, it is possible that one guide works with two clients. This rule was introduced based on safety considerations and the requirements of local guide associations and the international guide association IFMGA (where our guides are trained). Given the complexity and length of the route, it is difficult for one guide to ensure the safe and comfortable movement of a large group.

Главные впечатления от похода по Фанским горам:

Matterhorn climbing route:

Geneva — Chamonix — Lake Gaillands or Petite Aiguille Verte mountain (3512 m) — Pointes Lachenal mountain (3613 m) — Aiguille du Midi ridge (3842 m) — Breul Cervino — Matterhorn (4478 m) — Chamonix — Geneva

Route climbing the Matterhorn by day

01

day

Geneva

Group travel from Geneva airport to Chamonix by bus (regular shuttle). Usually 1.5 hours depending on traffic conditions. Meeting with the guide either in Geneva or at the final stop of the Geneva – Chamonix bus. Check-in at the apartment from 17:00. Discussion of questions about the program with the guide. Checking the availability of the equipment and clothing required for the program.
If necessary, the missing equipment can be bought in numerous stores or rented at rental points. Preparation for departure, packing backpacks.

02

day

Lake Gaillands or Petite Aiguille Verte mountain, 3512 m

There are two program options at the guide’s discretion today.
1. Training on natural rocks. Wake up at 7:00. Leave at 8:30 and travel by bus to Lake Gaillands. Rock training: rock climbing with top and bottom belay, belay techniques, rope work.
2. Or ascent. Early rise and departure from Chamonix to catch the first cable car Grands Montets. Today we will climb the mountain Petite Aiguille Verte, 3512 m. The route is at the discretion of the guide PD / AD difficulty category. Start from the upper station of the cable car Grands Montets. In the evening, descent to Chamonix. Rest.

03

day

Traverse of the summit of Pointes Lachenal

We take the first cable car l’Aiguille du Midi to the last line. Start from the ice cave l’Aiguille du Midi. Today we will traverse the summit of Pointes Lachenal, 3613 m, difficulty category AD -. Descent and further transition to the Cosmique hut. Overnight in the hut.

04

day

Climbing the Aiguille du Midi ridge

Early rise and departure. Ascent along the ridge of Aiguille du Midi, 3842 m, route of difficulty category AD. Descent by cable car to Chamonix in the afternoon. Rest. Preparation for the move to Breul-Cervino.

05

day

Hut J.A. Carrel

Check out of the apartment by 7:00 a.m. Today we will travel by bus with transfers or rent a car to the Aosta Valley and further to Breul Cervino.
Access to the Col di Leone pass. Climb to Ducadegli Abruzzi. Transition to J.A. hut Carrel 3829 m, (5-7 hours travel time). Overnight stay.

06

day

Climbing the Matterhorn (4478 m)

Ascent at 1:00-2:00, leaving the hut no later than 3:00. Usually the ascent takes 5-7 hours one way and the same amount of time for the descent. It is very important to reach the summit before 12:00 to make the descent in safe weather conditions. Overnight at the J.A. Carrel refuge.

07

day

Descent to Breuil

Descent to Ducadegli Abruzzi (3-4 hours), rest stop. Continuation of descent to Breuil (2006 m, 1.5-2 hours). Transfer to Chamonix. In the evening, around 18-19:00 return to Chamonix. End of the program. Festive dinner.

08

day

Reserve day in case of bad weather

End of the program.

Full route description

Note:
– The program is not final and may be adjusted depending on the weather, the condition of the participants and other factors.
– The main principle in our work is customer safety! If the participant is technically or physically not ready to climb the Matterhorn, the guide has the right, based on the results of acclimatization and three training ascents, to offer an alternative end to the program without compensation or refunds of funds spent on participation in the program.
– The best time for climbing begins in mid-July after the snow and ice melts from the rocky areas, and lasts until the first cold weather – usually until mid-September.
– The route is not possible if there is a risk of thunderstorms due to the impossibility of sheltering from lightning..

Why is it profitable to go hiking with Extremeguide?

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We have been leading people on hikes for over 15 years. Safety is the main principle in our work.
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Quality food tailored to your wishes
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Our guides are professional climbers and mountain tourists with extensive experience
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We have prepared a unique route for you
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Low price guarantee with best service
Group
The trip will take place even if there is 1 person in the group
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Flexible discount system
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We work according to contract

Cost and conditions for climbing the Matterhorn

Is this trip right for you?

To participate in this climb, you must have mountaineering experience (peaks 2B-3A difficulty level/PD – AD-), confident movement in crampons and on rocks.

Minimum climbing experience – confident climbing on rocks 5c-6a. We recommend completing any of our training programs before traveling to the Matterhorn Rock climbing and mountaineering in Bulgaria, Granites of Chamonix, Mountaineering School in Chaukhi or similar programs.

Included in the price:

  • work of a guide trained according to international standards (1 guide per 1 participant). During the training and acclimatization period, 1 guide per 2 participants is possible;
  • second guide during the ascent of the Matterhorn (if there are 2 people in the group);
  • ascent certificate;
  • booking of apartments in Chamonix and Cervinia;
  • rental of group special equipment – ropes, nuts, friends, loops, carabiners;
  • group first aid kit (held by the guide).

The price does not include:

  • road from your place of stay to Geneva airport;
  • transfer Chamonix – Breul – Chamonix, by bus, round trip – 60 €;
  • transfers through the Chamonix valley;
  • lifts to: Grands Montets, Aiguille du Midi;
  • accommodation in the Cosmiques hut (1 night) – 45 €;
  • accommodation in the Carrel hut (2 nights) – 40 €;
  • medical insurance indicating mountaineering activities – 30-40 € will be issued by Extreme Guide;
  • Schengen visa;
  • rental of individual equipment required for climbing – 100 euros per set;
  • meals in Chamonix – from 15 €/day;
  • accommodation in Chamonix (we can book apartments from 150 € per program), accommodation in tents is possible;
  • meals in huts – 45 €/day (Carrel refuge self-catering);
  • additional nights in Chamonix and mountain huts;
  • telephone calls;
  • tips for the guide (optional);
  • other expenses not specified in the program.

The amount of additional costs, excluding international airfare and equipment rental, can be €450 – €550.

Cost depending on the number of participants

Number of participantsCost per 1 participant
22400 EUR
13000 EUR
info

Best price guarantee!

  • If you find a tour with a similar set of services cheaper, we will refund you the difference!
  • We have included in the price all possible basic expenses for the program and guarantee that there are no hidden additional costs, while we have retained the best service at a low price: transfers, hotel accommodationguides and staff!

We have a flexible discount system

Find out the details right now:
I want a discount!

Necessary equipment

Basics:

Shoes and clothing:

  • Mountaineering boots (it is important that the shoes are comfortable and worn in. Usually shoes are chosen with a thick toe and 1.5-2 sizes larger than the foot size) (More about choosing clothes and boots);
  • Insulated jacket (down/primaloft);
  • Membrane jacket (softshell);
  • Membrane pants (softshell, windstopper);
  • Fleece jacket;
  • A set of thermal underwear (top and bottom);
  • T-shirt;
  • Light trekking pants/shorts (for trekking);
  • A cap;
  • Socks 2 pairs (thermal or other thick);
  • Overnight socks (wool or down);
  • Liner (sheet for overnight stay in a shelter);
  • Warm mittens/ski mittens (down or synthetic insulation);
  • Warm gloves (fleece);
  • Work gloves (for working with rope);
  • Change of underwear;
  • Buff or balaclava;
  • Sun hat;
  • Rain cape (if your walking clothes get wet).

Additionally:

  • A cape for a backpack (or large plastic bags for packing things);
  • Headlamp + spare set of batteries;
  • Hygiene items (a toothbrush and a small tube of toothpaste, a bar of soap and a little shampoo will be enough; do not take full bottles of shower gel and shampoo, heaps of creams and lotions with you);
  • Documents;
  • Individual first aid kit (plaster, cold, stomach, head. You also need to take into account specific and chronic diseases, if any. In addition to the individual first aid kit, the instructor has a general);
  • Mountaineering goggles (protection category 3-4);
  • lip balm chapstick ;
  • Sunscreen ointment (with SPF 30-50);
  • Water bottle ( 1-2 l.)
  • Lighter;
  • Mobile phone.

Special equipment

  • Belay system;
  • Self-belay system — 1 pc;
  • Carabiners 3 pcs (2 medium);
  • Mountaineering helmet (a ski helmet will not work!);
  • Classic ice axe;
  • Crampons (that match your boots).

The amount of special equipment depends on the specific event; here is the most extensive list. Also, depending on the specific event, this equipment is either included in the price or not included, in which case you do not need to buy it, but can rent it from us.

Equipment rental from ExtremeGuide.

  • Thermos (0.5 – 1.0 liters);
  • Camera;
  • Trekking poles.

Additional information

Important! The requirement of local guide associations, due to the high danger of the route, is that a guide work with no more than one client. We respect the requirements of local guide associations, and also value your safety and the safety of our guides. Therefore, on the Matterhorn you will be alone with your guide.

Meet your guide either in Geneva or at the final stop of the Geneva – Chamonix bus.

We offer to book accommodation for you at your choice:
– apartments in a campsite – from 60 €;
– a hotel of any level.

Participants provide their own meals. Italian cuisine requires no recommendations. In the campsite, it is possible to cook on your own gas burners. During the ascent, cooking is done independently from your own products under the guidance of guides.

At the ascents, the first aid kit is with the guide. Contact with rescuers is possible from any point along the route. Individual medications must be taken with you.

Up to + 30ºС in the valleys. In the highlands up to – 10ºС.

This program is potentially dangerous to the health and life of any of the participants.
Guides provide the necessary safety, provided that the participants comply with safety regulations.
The decision to stop the ascent in conditions that threaten the safety of the participants is the exclusive responsibility of the guide and is not subject to discussion.

Absence of diseases incompatible with active tourism: List of diseases

There are direct flights from Europa to Milan. The distance from Milan to the starting point of the ascent is 160 km. We will arrange a transfer from the airport and back for you.

The card holder has a 50% discount on Swiss Railways, valid for 1 month (or one year at the highest price) and costing approximately CHF 120, receives a 50% discount on almost all train and gondola rides in Switzerland, including the Klein Matterhorn Gondola ( Saving CHF 50 per person) and the Gornergrat train to Zermatt (saving CHF 21 on the return trip to Zermatt from Rothenboden).

The savings on gondola/train rides on this trip are typically over 60% of the purchase price, and especially if you plan to travel to and from Zermatt by train, the Half Fare Card gives you the opportunity to save.

You may be asked to show your passport as the 1 month card is not available to Swiss residents, which also explains why it is so difficult to find on the official Swiss Rail (SBB) website.

Note:

The table shows the basic cost for a group and may change depending on the number of people in the group. For the calculation of the cost of the tour for a smaller number of people and individual groups, see the «Price» block for more details.

We guarantee that on the dates indicated in the table, even if there is a minimum number of people allowed in the group, the tour will take place 100% with a minimum change in cost.

Price from 2400 EUR

Pleasant bonuses, which everyone receives when ordering a tour with us

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We will help you with tickets
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Prompt professional advice and support at all stages
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Payment through payment systems convenient for you
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You will receive confirmation of your feat - a certificate
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