Lenin Peak is one of the most popular 7000 m peaks in the ex-CIS countries due to its accessibility: logistics, ascent route, arrangement of base camps.
We invite you to step beyond 7000 meters and make a fascinating climb to Lenin Peak. This is within the power of physically strong and resilient people who have experience of high-mountain ascents above 5,000 meters, for example, Elbrus or Kazbek. Before climbing the 7,000-meter peaks, it is optimal to try your hand at simple 6,000+ peaks in Nepal, for example, Island Peak or Mera Peak.
Considering that Lenin Peak is often the first high-altitude experience for most tourists, and the first 7000-k, we have developed a very smooth acclimatization with acclimatization overnight stays at 6100, training on the glacier and the technique of moving on closed glaciers. Therefore, the program is a little longer than the standard one to increase the chances of a successful ascent.
Lenin Peak (the modern name of the peak in Tajikistan is Abu Ali ibn Sina) is located in the central part of the Trans-Alay Range in the Pamirs, Kyrgyzstan
Difficulty of climbing Lenin Peak
The official difficulty category of the peak is 5A, which characterizes the overall effort required to reach the summit. In terms of technical difficulty, the overall ascent would be rated 2A-2B. It’s important to remember that Peak Lenin’s elevation exceeds 7,000 meters, which is considered high-altitude mountaineering. The climb itself is technically straightforward and is usually completed in roped-up groups. However, as with other ascents in the Pamir Mountains, in addition to the technical difficulty, one must consider the effects of altitude on the body and the weather and climate conditions on the mountain. The glacier zone begins at 4,000 meters, and snow does not melt above 4,500 meters. You should be prepared to set up a bivouac on the glacier and spend 2-3 nights in tents in the snow.
The main difficulties on the route are a closed glacier with cracks from Camp 4300 to Camp 1 (5300), an exit to the summit along the “knife” 6700 (a narrow ridge with a steepness of 35-40 degrees). For a successful ascent to Lenin Peak, you will need good physical shape and endurance, as well as previous high-altitude experience.
Peculiarities of the ascent
The peculiarity of our program is that it is a little longer than the usual 18-20 days, we have extended it for high-quality acclimatization, you will have more reserve days for weather and other circumstances. It is important that we gradually gain altitude, with a subsequent overnight stay at the new altitude in order to consolidate and obtain the necessary acclimatization. Thus, before the ascent, you will have 5 overnight stays at an altitude of 5300 (the number of overnight stays above 5000 determines the successful outcome of ascents to peaks of 7000 meters) and one overnight stay at an altitude of 6100, Camp 3. Before the ascent, you will have a rest in Camp 3600 meters. More days per program and more spare days greatly increases the likelihood of a positive result.
We also practice alternative acclimatization routes in order to avoid visiting the Skovorodka glacier three times and to diversify the trip.
An important point is that all our guides have at least 1st class qualification in mountaineering, have instructor certificates, experience of climbing 7000+ peaks, including Lenin Peak, and have completed courses in first aid in the mountains. Our main principle in work is safety, the second important principle is achieving results without violating principle No. 1.
On our page you can find an experienced guide and find out the price of climbing Lenin Peak.
Why should you choose our program?:
☑️work experience since 2008;
☑️professional guides, at least 2 guides will be with you on the ascent;
☑️small groups, up to 8 people;
☑️during the ascent no more than 3 participants per 1 guide;
☑️thoughtful service, at a good price;
☑️all basic expenses are already included;
☑️guaranteed results, even if you do not ascend, we give a bonus for the next repeat attempt;
☑️thoughtful acclimatization + more spare days;
☑️we send recommendations on training.
Minimum experience to participate in the program: 2-3 ascents at 5000+ m or experience of ascents at 6000 in Nepal.
The optimal season for climbing Lenin Peak is from July 10 to August 20. Before July 10 there is a lot of snow in the mountains and precipitation is possible, after August 20 autumn comes to the mountains and the weather is more changeable.
Главные впечатления от похода по Фанским горам:
Climbing route to Lenin Peak:
Osh – Achiktash – base camp, 3600 – Petrovskogo peak – Puteshestvennikov pass – camp 1, 4300 – Yukhin peak – camp 2, 5300 – Razdelnaya peak, 6200 – Lenin peak – Achiktash – Osh – camp 1, 4300 – Yukhin peak – camp 2, 5300 – Razdelnaya peak, 6200 – Lenin peak – Achiktash – Osh
Your guides for climbing Lenin Peak
Route of the ascent to Lenin Peak by days
day
Arrival in Osh in the morning. We recommend arriving in advance of Osh so that you have the opportunity to rest after a long flight. Purchase of food and transfer to the Base Camp (3800 m). It is optimal to arrive on a morning flight to Osh or the day before (the day before, to recover from the road). The transfer from Osh to the Base Camp takes 6-7 hours. At base camp we will stay in permanent tents. There is a canteen and a shower, as well as 4G mobile communications.
Accommodation in stationary tents.
day
Acclimatization in BC, walk in the surroundings. Lecture on “mountain sickness” and tactics of movement on snow-ice slopes, rope equipment: organization of a pulley system and rescue operations on a glacier, etc. Accommodation in stationary tents.
day
Acclimatization hike from BC to Petrovskogo Peak (up to 4400 meters, 6 hours). The climb to Petrovskogo Peak is not technically difficult and takes place along a rocky path, without the use of special equipment. Return to BC 3600. Rest. Accommodation in stationary tents.
day
Transfer to C1, 4300 m. In the base camp we leave all things not needed for the main program in the storage room. We give some things to the horses. The trail goes through the Puteshestvennik Pass and the exit to the moraine of Lenin Lake. Some equipment (tents, ropes, gas) and food are carried by horses. If desired, you can take a separate horse to transport personal belongings (3 EUR/kg). Accommodation in permanent tents.
day
After breakfast, radial ascent to Domashniy Peak, 4700 m. No equipment required, we follow the trail. Return to Camp 1, 4300 m. Camp 4300 has a shower and a bathhouse, as well as electricity and paid wi-fi. Accommodation in permanent tents.
day
Today we continue acclimatization. Climbing to Yukhin Peak 5100. The climb along a rocky path will take about 4-5 hours one way. Overnight in tents in the area of Yukhin Peak. Here we set up camp ourselves. If desired, you can take a porter to carry things.
day
Return to Camp 1, 4300. Rest
day
Acclimatization in C1, training on the glacier: work in teams on a snow-ice slope, organization of rescue operations on the glacier. Night in C1. It is very important that each participant knows the algorithm of actions in case of a fall into a crevasse. There are many ice crevasses on the transition from C1 to C2, so you need to be very careful.
day
Transfer to Camp 2, 5300 m. We leave early in the morning to cross the “frying pan” as early as possible and not fall into the cracks. Overnight in tents in Camp 2, 5300 m. The peculiarity of the frying pan is that there is almost never any wind here, this place is potentially dangerous for avalanches, and there are many cracks, so this place must be passed as quickly as possible.
On average, the transition takes 6-7 hours, for those who are not acclimatized. Overnight in tents in Camp 2, 5300 m.
day
Acclimatization hike to Camp 3 (6100 m). Early start and ascent to Camp 3 at 6100 m (3-4 hours). Climbing a steep snowy slope, in some places up to 35 degrees. Depending on the situation, overnight stay in camp 6100. You can pre-order 3 tents installed in the camp so as not to carry your own.
day
Get up early in the morning to have time to cross the glacier in the cold. On the same day, descent to the Base Camp along the ascent route, 4300 m. If desired, you can go to rest in the camp at 3600 m, this will allow the body to fully recover.
day
Rest day 1.
day
Rest day 2.
day
Trek to Camp 2 (5300 m). Overnight stay at Camp 2.
day
Transfer to Camp 3 (6200 m). Overnight stay at Camp 3.
day
Ascent to Lenin Peak (7134 m) and descent to Camp 3. On average, the ascent to the summit takes about 8-10 hours, and the descent 3-4 hours. The optimal time to leave is 4:00. The checkpoint at the summit is 14:00. If you have not managed to climb before this time, the guide has the right to turn you around at any point on the route. Technically, the climb is not difficult, but except for the “knife” section above 6700 m (snow-ice slope 40-45 degrees). Railings are installed in this place (ascent with a jumar or on a sliding self-belay).
day
Reserve days. It is possible to move the camp to an altitude of 6400 m.
day
Reserve days. It is possible to move the camp to an altitude of 6400 m.
day
Reserve days. It is possible to move the camp to an altitude of 6400 m.
day
Descent to C1, 4300 m
day
Descent to Base Camp, 3600. In the afternoon, transfer to the city of Osh/Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel.
day
Morning flight home.
Note:
— To participate in the expedition, you must submit an application and make a prepayment no later than 30 days before the start. This is due to the requirement to submit an application for passes 3 weeks before the start of the expedition. No later applications will be accepted;
— This is a high-altitude expedition. A gradual acclimatization plan has been developed to acclimatize the group—adapting to high-altitude conditions;
— To participate in the expedition, you must have experience climbing Elbrus, Kazbek, Mera Peak, Island Peak, or hiking with an altitude gain of 5,000 meters or higher;
— The expedition consists of up to 8 people + 2 guides;
— The tour program is not final and is subject to adjustment depending on weather conditions, the participants’ condition, and other circumstances.
Map of the route for climbing Lenin Peak:
Why is it profitable to go hiking with Extremeguide?
Cost and conditions of climbing Lenin Peak
Is this trip right for you?
Minimum experience of participants in climbing peaks of 4500+ m in high mountains, Elbrus, Kazbek, Island Peak or Mera Peak, Nepal, etc., good physical fitness.
Included in the price:
- accompaniment and training by a guide with experience of climbing to 7000 (group of up to 3 people);
- second guide during the assault for a group of 4 or more people;
- all transfers according to the program from Osh and back;
- accommodation in Osh – 2 nights, 3* hotel;
- accommodation in a comfortable base camp and camp 4300 “Asia Mountains”;
- accommodation in tents for 2 people (base camp and advanced base camp 4300 m);
- meals in the BC cafe and Camp 1 (unlimited number of days within the 20-day program);
- special high-altitude rations in Camp 2 and Camp 3;
- rope, ice screws, snow shovel and other special group equipment;
- gas burners and gas;
- tent rental for high-altitude camps (2+1);
- Accommodation in base tents in BC and Camp 1 (double occupancy, high tents with wooden flooring, mattress, pillow, lighting and power outlet);
- Pre-installed high tents in C2 and C3 (double occupancy);
- transportation of group equipment and food on horses from BC to C1;
- registration and preparation of necessary documents (registration with OVIR, pass to the border zone, registration with the rescue squad);
- radio support if you have a portable radio station (151.625 MHz);
- services at the BC and Camp 1.
- group first aid kit from the guide;
- GPS, radios;
- ascent certificate (note: services at the BC and Camp 1);
- accommodation in double and triple tents (tents in the BC are equipped with electric lighting, wooden flooring and kurpachas – national mattresses);
- yurts – wardrooms (in the national style) with heating in the BC and Camp 1 for rest and entertainment (music, viewing photos on the computer, guitar, etc.);
- toilet, storage room in the BC and Camp 1;
- sauna (steam room) – paid additionally;
- medical care (resuscitator) in the BC and Camp 1;
- 1 GB of satellite Internet in С1;
- shower stall in the BC;
- dining room and kitchen in the BC and Camp 1;
- cutlery in the BC and Camp 1;
- garbage removal in the BC and Camp 1.
The price does not include:
- insurance policy covering an amount over EUR 30,000 — from EUR 100 will be issued by ExtremeGuide;
- international flight to Osh or Bishkek (EUR 350-EUR 600);
- high-altitude cook, above the advanced base camp 4200;
- personal equipment and clothing;
- transportation of personal belongings on horses between camps 3800 m and 4400 m — EUR 2/per 1 kg;
- rental of mountaineering equipment – EUR 200 per set;
- tips for the guide (optional);
- other expenses not specified in the program.
- The cost of porter services is not included in the package price and is paid additionally:
- Camp 1 (4400m) – Camp 2 (5300 m): 5 EUR/kg
Camp 2 (5300m) – Camp 3 (6100 m): 7 EUR/kg
Camp 1(4400m) – Camp 3 (6100 m): 12 EUR/kg
*Please note! The BC does not offer rental of personal clothing and equipment such as boots, down jacket, sleeping bag, so we recommend renting all of this or buying it at your place of residence.
Price depending on the number of participants
| Number of participants | Cost per 1 participant |
|---|---|
| 6 | 2900 EUR |
| 5 | 3200 EUR |
| 4 | 3700 EUR |
| 3 | 3700 EUR |
| 2 | 4700 EUR |
| 1 | 8000 EUR |
Best price guarantee!
- We have included in the price all possible basic expenses for the program and guarantee that there are no hidden additional costs, while we have retained the best service at a low price: transfers, hotel accommodation, guides and staff!
We have a flexible discount system
Find out the details right now:
Necessary equipment
For selection of equipment for climbing Lenin Peak, see here…
Basics:
- Backpack 80-120 l. (please note that in addition to personal belongings, it should also accommodate food and communal equipment);(More about choosing a backpack);
- Sleeping bag (Depending on the specific hike, the temperature at night can drop to -25. If the sleeping bag is down, then a bivouac bag is needed for it)(More about choosing a sleeping bag);
- Pad (a thick and warm rug, or two) (Read more about choosing a pad).
Shoes and clothes:
- Double boots (if the outer boot is plastic, and not warm, like in La Sportiva Spantic, then have additional warm balilas on the boot. It is important that the shoes are comfortable and worn in. Usually, shoes are chosen with a thick toe and 1.5-2 sizes larger than the foot size);
- Replacement footwear (sneakers, sandals or flip-flops);
- Gaiters (shoe covers, flashlights) for boots;
- Down jacket;
- Insulated pants (ski pants, down pants, or warm polar pants for walking) (More about choosing clothes and shoes);
- Warm hat;
- Balaclava;
- Walking pants (preferably membrane);
- Walking jacket (preferably membrane);
- Rain cape (if walking clothes get wet);
- Thermal underwear set (if there is no thermal underwear, long johns and a jacket);
- Warm jacket 2 pcs. (polar, fleece);
- Socks 2 pairs (“thermal socks” or other thick ones);
- Socks for overnight stays (wool, fleece or down);
- Warm mittens (down or similar);
- Warm gloves (under mittens, for example fleece);
- T-shirt;
- Change of underwear;
- Sun hat.
The rest:
- A cover for a backpack (or large plastic bags for packing things);
- Mug, spoon, bowl, knife;
- Headlamp + spare set of batteries;
- Hygiene items (a toothbrush and a small tube of toothpaste, a bar of soap and a little shampoo will be enough; do not take full bottles of shower gel and shampoo, heaps of creams and lotions with you);
- Documents;
- Individual first aid kit (plaster, cold, stomach, head. You also need to take into account specific and chronic diseases, if any. In addition to the individual first aid kit, the instructor has a general);
- Mountaineering goggles (it can be glasses);
- Spare glasses;
- lip balm chapstick ;
- Sunscreen ointment;
- Water bottle ( 1-2 l.)
- Thermos (0.5 – 1.0 liters);
- Matches (3 packs, hermetically sealed);
- Trekking poles (or ski poles);
- Watch.
Special equipment:
- Safety system;
- Self-belay ropes;
- Descender;
- 4 carabiners;
- 2 ice screws (preferably not titanium);
- Helmet;
- Ice axe;
- Crampons;
- Jumar;
- Loop for hanging a backpack.
Group equipment:
- High-altitude tents;
- Ropes;
- Boilers;
- Burner.
If you do not have or are missing any equipment, you can rent it from us.
Equipment rental from ExtremeGuide.
The availability of group equipment and its quantity is agreed upon separately, with the assembled group.
- Down socks;
- Spare gloves or mittens (for example, ski gloves);
- Camera;
- Seat cushion;
- Garbage bags (convenient for packing things).
Additional information
The closest large city to Lenin Peak is Osh (it is also possible to meet in Bishkek). From Osh, where all ascents to Lenin Peak begin, we go along the Pamir Highway through the Taldyk Pass (3615 m) by minibus and get to the Alay Valley. Then from the village of Sary-Tash we go to the village of Kashka-Suu, and then, having crossed the bridge over the Kyzyl-Suu River and having climbed along its tributary, the Achik-Tash River, the road leads to the “Edelweiss Glade”, where expeditionary camps of climbers are usually set up.
Kyrgyzstan has a visa-free regime with the former CIS countries. To enter Kyrgyzstan, citizens of Ukraine and the former CIS countries must have an international passport.
General group gathering in Osh (until 12:00), you can also fly to Bishkek and from there take a bus to Osh. If you fly to Bishkek, you need to plan your arrival in advance.
Transport – jeep or minibus “Mercedes”.
For transitions with a heavy backpack to Camp 3600, Camp 1 (4300) and Camp 2 (5300), the weight of the backpack can reach up to 15 kg for a man. Spending the night on a glacier (camp 5300), to temperature changes and difficult climatic conditions (at night at 5300 the temperature can drop to – 10…- 15 C), at Lenin Peak temperatures up to – 25 C (at night), to staying at altitudes of 5000+ and possible “altitude sickness.” Actively assist the guide in cooking on autonomous exits (duty). You must also be ready to move in ropes on a closed glacier, if necessary, insure the guide. The guide will conduct the necessary training before going out onto the glacier.
Tents for the entire period of the active program 2+1, in BC 3600 (yurt or stationary tents on wooden platforms).
During acclimatization trips and ascents, meals are served three times a day. Breakfast, “pocket snack”, lunch (snack) and dinner. Participants cook for themselves, on duty. Autonomous meals are possible if desired. In Camps 3600 and 4300, full home-cooked meals are available.
There is a storage room for personal belongings in camps 3600 and 4300.
At the exits, the group first aid kit is with the guide. It is necessary to have your own set of medicines for individual diseases and chronic diseases.
There is 3G in Camp 3600, but an unstable GSM signal is available at 4300. There is satellite Internet in Camp 4300. It is much cheaper to buy a SIM card from a local mobile operator – you don’t need a passport or any other documents for this, SIM cards are freely available in Osh.
List of diseases. It is advisable to do a medical checkup before the tour.
Read also Features of acclimatization in high mountains
Physical and mental preparation before climbing and hiking in the mountains
This program is potentially dangerous to the health and life of any participant. Guides will provide you with the necessary safety provided that you comply with the rules of mountain climbing and safety precautions for all participants without exception. Therefore, it is necessary to listen to the opinion and advice of the guide. During the program and, especially, in critical situations, participants must fully and unquestioningly follow the recommendations and instructions of the guide. The guide has a radio, GPS (satellite navigation device), and other necessary group equipment. The decision to stop the ascent in conditions that threaten the safety of the participants is in the exclusive competence of the guide accompanying the group on the route, and is not subject to discussion. The guide is obliged to take measures to ensure the safety of the group on all types of mountain terrain, since this is the key task of the guide on the route.
To participate in the tour, you need good physical fitness, we recommend running 2-3 times a week at least 10-15 km on rough terrain + general physical fitness. You can receive general recommendations separately by email.
Euros and dollars are well accepted in Kyrgyzstan. It is better to have small dollars with you.
In camp 3600 there is a free shower and 4300 is a paid shower.
The table shows the basic cost for a group and may change depending on the number of people in the group. For the calculation of the cost of the tour for a smaller number of people and individual groups, see the «Price» block for more details.
We guarantee that on the dates indicated in the table, even if there is a minimum number of people allowed in the group, the tour will take place 100% with a minimum change in cost.
Pleasant bonuses, which everyone receives when ordering a tour with us
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