Climbing the highest peak of Western Europe – Mont Blanc, 4810 m along the most beautiful route “Traverse of the 3 “Monts”, which means “Traverse of three peaks”. The path of your route will pass through 3 peaks, each of which is higher than 4000 m: Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248 m), Mont Maudit (4465 m) and Mont Blanc itself (4810 m).
We recommend this route to Mont Blanc for those who already have experience of previous mountaineering ascents and are in good physical shape. There are much fewer people here than on the standard route and the peaks of the Savoy Alps: Grandes Jorasses, Dent du Géant, Aiguille Verte, Aiguille de Triolet.
The ascent is led by an experienced certified guide – Alexander Letnikov.
The ascent starts from the warm and well-kept Cosmiques refuge, which is located at an altitude of 3613 m. The refuge can be reached by taking the most beautiful cable car in Chamonix to the Aiguille du Midi mountain, 3842 m, then a short descent along the spectacular ridge down to the glacier, where the trail will take you to the refuge in 20 minutes.
The 3 Summits Traverse is the second most difficult of the classic 5 routes on Mont Blanc. According to our difficulty category, approximately 2B. It is slightly more difficult than the standard ascent route via the Goûter Hut. The main difficulty is that you need to walk longer above 4000 m. However, if the route is in good condition, there are almost no technical difficulties on it. The most difficult sections are the stairs connecting the edges of the crack under Mont Blanc du Tacul and 50 meters of 50° slope on the shoulder of Mont Maudit. The rest of the time, the route goes along a path of varying degrees of steepness. Many choose this route when the route via the Goûter Hut is too dangerous due to falling rocks in the Grand Couloir.
Statistics show that only 30% of independent climbers reach the summit of Mont Blanc. Therefore, we invite you to make a safe ascent in the company of experienced guides from the company “ExtremeGuide”.
An important feature of our climbing Mont Blanc program is proper acclimatization with overnight stays above 2700 meters, training on the Le Tour glacier, and an acclimatization climb to the top of Tête Blanche (3520 m). Such acclimatization will allow you to prepare as best as possible for the main climb, gain the missing experience, and successfully climb Mont Blanc.
We climb in small groups, where one guide works with 2 clients, which increases your safety and guarantees a successful climb. From 2016 to 2024, 250 people climbed with us, most of them reached the summit, the average percentage of successful climbs is 96%.
Главные впечатления от похода по Фанским горам:
Climbing route to Mont Blanc:
Geneva — Chamonix — Albert 1 hut (2700 m) — Tête Blanche summit (3520 m) — Chamonix — Cosmique refuge — summit Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248 m) — Mont Blanc (4810 m) — Goûter refuge / Tête Rousse — Chamonix — Geneva
Route of climbing Mont Blanc by days
day
Meet your guide at the Chamonix bus station no later than 6:00 PM. Transfer to your apartment and check-in.
We settle into the apartments, meet the group and the guide. We check the equipment before the ascent.
day
After breakfast we will go to the rental and take the missing equipment. Today we will go up to the Le Tour glacier by cable car. Transfer to the Albert 1 hut (2700 m). Overnight in the hut. Classes on the glacier on belay and self-belay techniques, and crampon techniques.
day
Early breakfast. In the morning we continue training on the glacier, make a radial ascent to the top of Tête Blanche (3520 m). Return to the Chamonix Valley. Overnight in apartments.
day
A day of rest and additional training on the natural climbing wall in Chamonix. Preparation for the ascent.
day
In the afternoon, take the cable car to Mount Aiguille du Midi, 3842 m. Along the ridge and then along the glacier we go to the Cosmiques refuge, 3613 m. Accommodation and rest.
day
We start the ascent to the summit at night. Climbing to the top takes 6-8 hours, descending 2-3 hours to the Goûter / Tet Rus refuge. For well-prepared participants, the descent to Chamonix can be planned on the same day. It is important to correctly assess your endurance in order to leave enough strength for a successful descent. Night in the Goûter / Tet Rus refuge or in Chamonix.
*Depending on the condition of the participants, the weather conditions and the state of the Goûter couloir, it is possible to descend directly to the Tet Rus refuge or to the tram stop.
In addition, if there are no places in the Goûter refuge, it is possible to descend back in the direction of the Cosmiques hut.
day
Reserve days can be used for walks in Chamonix, exploring the local mountaineering museum, cheese shops, outdoor equipment stores, etc. Descent to Chamonix. Festive dinner, celebrating a successful ascent.
day
Plan your departure from Geneva no earlier than 14:00 local time.
Cosmiques hut – Shoulder Mont Blanc du Tacul, 4120 m. ~ 2:30*
From the Cosmiques hut 3613 m, first a short hike to Col du Midi 3532 across the glacier, about 15 minutes. Then a fairly steep climb to the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul, 4120 m, about 2 more hours. There are cracks along the way, through one of the cracks in 2018 it was necessary to climb a 20-meter ladder.
Shoulder Mont Blanc du Tacul, 4120 m. – Col du Mont Maudit, 4345 m. ~ 2:30*
From the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul, 4120 m, a short trek to Col Maudit, 4035 m, about 15 min. Then a traverse to the right and a long, sometimes steep climb around several large crevasses. At the end of the climb to Col du Mont Maudit, 4345 m, there is a steep slope of 50 meters of 50° snow or ice, there is usually a safety rope on this section, or the guide will arrange his own belay. Estimated time is about 2 hours and 15 minutes.
Col du Mont Maudit, 4345 m. – Summit of Mont Blanc, 4810 m. ~ 3:15*
Then from Col du Mont Maudit, 4345 m. a small traverse and descent to Col de La Brevna, 4303 m., 30 minutes. The route then follows a fairly safe moderately steep path to the Summit of Mont Blanc, 4810 m, 2 hours 15 minutes.
Summit of Mont Blanc, 4810 m. – Cosmiques Hut ~ 5:30*
Then from Col du Mont Maudit, 4345 m. a small traverse and descent to Col de La Brevna, 4303 m., 30 minutes. The route then follows a fairly safe moderately steep path to the very top of Mont Blanc, 4810 m, 2 hours 15 minutes.
*The average time given is for acclimatized tourists.
Why is it profitable to go hiking with Extremeguide?
Cost and conditions for climbing Mont Blanc
Is this trip right for you?
To participate in the Mont Blanc ascent program, you need good physical fitness, experience in mountaineering and climbing is not necessary. Before the climb, you will undergo a training cycle in order to safely climb Mont Blanc.
We recommend that you begin active training no later than 2 months before the start of the program: running, swimming, cycling, cross-country skiing. You will also receive a series of educational video lessons by email.
We recommend taking one of the programs Mountaineering school in Georgia, Chamonix granites, Mountaineering School in the Carpathians: Climbing Mount Spice and Mountaineering School in the Tatras: Climbing Mount Kežmarský štít.
The price includes:
- guide work: 1 guide per group of 2 people, during the acclimatization period (1-4 days) – 1 guide for up to 6 people;
- second guide on Mont Blanc, if the group is 2 or more people (for the ascent);
- rental of personal special equipment (ice axe, helmet, harness, crampons, carabiners);
- navigation and communication equipment from the guide;
- 4 nights in comfortable apartments in the Chamonix Valley (2-room apartment, 4-5 people at a time, there is a shower, kitchen, Internet), within the 8-day program;
- Cost of accommodation in the huts Le Tour, Cosmique, Gute (we make all necessary reservations in advance), 3 nights in total;
- cable car to Aiguille du Midi, 3842 m;
- cable car to the Le Tour glacier;
- tram to Mont Blanc (for descent);
- rental of special equipment (ropes, ice screws, public carabiners);
- rental of gas equipment and boilers;
- group first aid kit from the guide;
- ascent certificate and a commemorative T-shirt.
Not included in the price:
(excluding airfare 300 – 400 €):
- flight to Geneva (from 200 €);
- Schengen visa;
- transfer from Geneva airport to Chamonix and back (regular shuttle of the transfer company); arrival in Chamonix no later than 18:00;
- meals during the stay in the Chamonix Valley from 15 € per day (if you cook your own food);
- meals in the cafe of the Albert 1 and Cosmique, Güte refuges (120-150 € in total);
- accident insurance and medical coverage from 30,000 €.
- mountain shoe rental — 70 €;
- payment of personal expenses and guide expenses related to the use of reserve nights at the Güte or Tet Rus/Cosmic shelter (cost of accommodation and meals in the shelter’s dining room);
- tips for the guide (optional);
- other expenses not specified in the program.
Meals are provided by the participants themselves, in the valley you can buy food in the store and cook it in the apartment. There is a canteen in the refuges, you can also take your own food and cook it in the refuge. Renting gas equipment and pots for cooking is free!
Cost depending on the number of participants
| Participants number | Cost per 1 participant |
|---|---|
| 4 | 2600 EUR |
| 3 | 3100 EUR |
| 2 | 3100 EUR |
| 1 | 4400 EUR |
Best price guarantee!
- We have included in the price all possible basic expenses for the program and guarantee that there are no hidden additional costs, while we have retained the best service at a low price: transfers, hotel accommodation, guides and staff!
We have a flexible discount system
Find out the details right now:
Necessary equipment
Basics:
- Backpack 60-70 liters for own items;
- Backpack for mountaineering 35-45 l (More about choosing a backpack)
Shoes and clothing:
- Mountaineering boots (It is important that shoes are comfortable and worn in. Usually shoes are chosen with a thick toe and 1.5-2 sizes larger than the foot size) (More about choosing clothes and boots);
- Light trekking sneakers (to walk to Chamonix and for approaches);
- Flip flops (useful for camping);
- Gaiters (shoe covers) for climbing boots;
- Insulated jacket (down, primaloft, etc. If it’s very thin, it’s better to take two for climbing Mont Blanc);
- Membrane jacket (preferably without insulation, to protect from wind and rain. It is better to choose from climbing brands. Ski clothes are not very suitable for mountaineering – too heavy and warm);
- Membrane pants (same as with jacket);
- Fleece shirt;
- Thermostat: top and pants;
- A few T-shirts;
- Lightweight trekking pants (for trekking);
- Fleece pants (if thermostat is too thin);
- Socks 3 pairs (thermal socks or other thick ones);
- Overnight socks (preferably wool or down);
- Warm gloves (ski or fleece);
- Warm mittens (down or synthetic insulation);
- Hat;
- Buff or balaclava;
- Sun cap;
- Rain cape (in case your main clothes get wet);
- Change underclothing.
Additionally:
- A cover for a backpack (or large plastic bags for packing things);
- *Mug, spoon, bowl, knife (if you plan to feed yourself in huts);
- Headlamp + spare set of batteries;
- Hygiene items (a toothbrush and a small tube of toothpaste, a bar of soap and a little shampoo will be enough; do not take full bottles of shower gel and shampoo, heaps of creams and lotions with you);
- Documents;
- Individual first aid kit (plaster, cold, stomach, head. You also need to take into account specific and chronic diseases, if any. In addition to the individual first aid kit, the instructor has a general);
- Mountaineering goggles (protection category 3-4);
- lip balm chapstick ;
- Sunscreen ointment (with SPF 30-50);
- Water bottle ( 1-2 l.);
- Lighter;
- Mobile phone.
Special equipment:
- Belay system (for safety);
- Self-belaying lanyard – 1 pc.;
- carabiners 3 pcs (2 medium);
- Climbing helmet (ski helmet will not work!);
- Classic ice ax;
- Crampons (that match your boots).
Review and list of equipment for Mont Blanc
The amount of special gear depends on the specific event; here is the most extensive list. Also, depending on the specific event, this equipment is either included in the price or not included, in which case you do not need to buy it, but can rent it from us.
- Thermos (0.5 – 1.0 liters);
- Camera;
- Trekking poles.
Additional Information
1.The route through 3 peaks requires good physical fitness and endurance. Ascent takes 6-8 hours, descent 4-6 hours. In total, you should be ready to walk at an altitude of 4000+ for up to 14 hours.
2. Since the route takes about 12-14 hours, a sufficient supply of good weather is needed. If the forecast for the time of descent from the mountain is dangerous for the ascent, the guide has the right to turn the group back before reaching the summit for safety.
3. The route through 3 peaks is avalanche-prone during heavy snowfalls and immediately after them. It may also be impassable at the end of the season, when it is too warm and a large number of cracks open. We try to choose dates when the chance of success is maximum, but the climate and weather can make their own adjustments. The guide will determine the state of the route before the ascent.
4. According to the requirements of local guide associations, the guide-client ratio on Mont Blanc is 1:2. We respect the operating standards of local associations and also value your safety and the safety of our guides. Therefore, during the ascent to Mont Blanc (from the Cosmic refuge) there are no more than 2 participants per guide. During the acclimatization period, the guide works with a maximum of 6 participants.
5. It is important that, based on the results of the ascent of Tête Blanche, the guide decides on the readiness of the participants for the final ascent of Mont Blanc. In case of insufficient physical fitness or problems with coordination and movement on snow and ice terrain, the guide has the right to refuse the opportunity to continue the further ascent program without compensation for the cost of expenses incurred. There are not many such cases, in 2018, according to the results, 10% of climbers were not physically and mentally prepared for long transitions and movement along the rocks (the transition from the Tet Rus refuge to Gute), passing the snow-ice ridge above the Vallo refuge. Your safety and the safety of the guides we work with are important to us, so it is very important to prepare for the ascent seriously and in advance.
- The program takes place in France, to visit which you need a valid passport
- Schengen visa (for the duration of the trip)
Important! You can also apply for a visa for the country where you plan to enter for the first time. We usually do a French visa, the purpose of the trip is tourism. We send you all the necessary reservations and confirmations for the visa in advance!
The most convenient way to fly is to Geneva (distance 80 km), you can also fly to Milan or Lyon (distance 230-250 km).
Arrival in Chamonix no later than 18:00
Transfer Geneva – Chamonix – Geneva regular shuttle (minibus) of the transfer company. In the Chamonix Valley we will travel by tram and regular buses (run regularly).
To an active acclimatization program, which will take place in one of the picturesque gorges of Chamonix, where you will gain the necessary mountaineering experience, to daily transitions of 5-10 km, to the fact that you will need to carry your backpack and personal belongings (usually up to 5-7 kg), to long monotonous loads (on average 8-9 hours), on climbing days up to 12-14 hours. Also, the route of ascent to Mont Blanc passes through a high-mountain zone where rocky relief alternates with an exit to ice slopes and a glacier with cracks, part of the ascent goes along a narrow ridge, where in some places you will need insurance. You should also understand that the ascent to Mont Blanc is associated with a certain discomfort due to the altitude (hypoxia).
We reserve comfortable apartments for the entire period of the program. Apartment: 2 rooms (2 people per room), maximum 4-5 people can be accommodated in the apartment. There are dishes for cooking, Internet (usually for an additional fee), washing machine.
On the mountain we live in high-mountain refuges- rooms for 10-20 people, the refuges are very comfortable and clean, there is a recreation area, a dining room where you can order food. There is no shower, there is electricity, toilet and heating.
Participants take care of their own meals. There are many cafes in Chamonix of all price categories. In the apartments, it is possible to prepare meals on your own, usually we do a common food purchase, everyone pitches in equally and cooks together. During the ascent, cooking is done independently from your own products under the guidance of guides or we order food in the refuge. In the Tête Rousse and du Goûter huts, there is a bar with a small selection of dishes, drinks and products.
At the exits, the guide has a first aid kit. You can contact rescuers by phone from almost anywhere. You must have personal medications.
Roaming is usually turned on automatically, the signal is good in the valley, in the refuges there is an unstable mobile signal. In apartments, hotels there is always wi-fi. In restaurants and cafes you need to check right before going in.
Up to + 30ºС in the valleys, up to – 15ºС in the highlands. Rain and thunderstorms are possible in summer. Snow in the mountains.
This program is potentially dangerous to the health and life of any of the participants.
Guides provide the necessary safety, provided that the participants comply with safety regulations.
The decision to stop the ascent in conditions that threaten the safety of the participants is the exclusive responsibility of the guide and is not subject to discussion.
Absence of diseases incompatible with active tourism: List of diseases.
Features of acclimatization in high mountains
Physical and mental preparation before climbing and hiking in the mountains
In Chamonix you can pay with Visa, MC and other plastic cards almost everywhere, even in the huts you can pay with cashless payments. It is better to take cash with you €.
The table shows the basic cost for a group and may change depending on the number of people in the group. For the calculation of the cost of the tour for a smaller number of people and individual groups, see the «Price» block for more details.
We guarantee that on the dates indicated in the table, even if there is a minimum number of people allowed in the group, the tour will take place 100% with a minimum change in cost.