Climbing Ojos Del Salado+ Aconcagua

This is a small mining town, the gateway to the Atacama region. Overnight at the hotel. General briefing and discussion of plans for the next days.

We rent an SUV. We buy food. The drive to the picturesque lake Laguna Santa Rosa (3800 m) takes about 3-4 hours, 150 km.
Laguna Rossa means “pink lake” in Spanish. It is a huge salt lake, part of which is covered by water. Many birds live here, including Chilean pink flamingos. Also, if you are lucky, you will see alpacas (a type of llama).
Setting up camp at the lake campsite. Dinner, rest. Overnight in a tent camp (if desired, you can spend the night in a house).

Today is the first morning at this altitude, we try not to put much stress on the body during the first days. Therefore, today we will take a short walk around the lake (for better acclimatization at altitudes up to 4500). Night in the camp.

In the morning after breakfast, acclimatization ascent to the summit of “7 Sisters” (4850 m). The ascent takes about 4 hours. Descent to the cars, transfer to Laguna Verde (4340 m), 2.5 hours – 130 km. On this day we will see Ojos del Salado (6893 m), the highest and largest peak in this region, for the first time. Night in tents Laguna.

This morning we slowly climb the neighboring peak – Mount Muerto Mule (from Spanish “dead mule”) to the 5000 m mark. Descent to Laguna Verde. Rest. Night in tents (4340 m). Laguna Verde means Green Lake in Spanish. It is notable not only for being one of the highest salt lakes in the world, but also for the fact that it is surrounded by numerous thermal springs and several baths with moderate temperatures, where you will happily return after a climb or a long day at altitude, after the snow and cold of Ojos del Salado.

The mountain is located 20 km from Laguna Verde on the Chile-Argentina border. Transfer to an altitude of 5100 m. Then walk along the trail. The path to the top takes 5-6 hours. Descent to Laguna Verde. Rest. Night in tents (4340 m).

1 hour drive or about 40 km from Laguna Verde off-road. Walk to 5600 m, return to the Atacama refuge. Set up camp at the refuge. The refuge is a large container for 6-8 people, so we do not really count on spending the night in it.

Transfer to the Tejos refuge and, if possible, climb to the 6200-6400 m mark. The road to the refuge is quite difficult and requires attention, often after heavy snowfalls it is impossible to get to the Tejos refuge, and the car remains at the Atacama refuge, and we go on foot. Return to the Atacama refuge.

Descent to Laguna Verde. Rest.

We will try to go to bed early so that no later than 0:00 hours we can leave in the direction of the Tehos refuge and begin our assault on the summit.

Early start. The way to the top takes about 8-10 hours and back 3-5 hours. The classic route of the ascent is an oblique traverse, exit to the crater of the summit and 20 m along simple rocks to the summit. And here we are at the top of the highest volcano – Ojos del Salado (6893 m). Descent to Laguna Verde.

Overnight at the hotel. We return the car. Farewell dinner, summing up and presentation of certificates.

In the morning, departure first to Santiago and then flight to Mendoza, Argentina. Check-in at the hotel. Shopping for food on Aconcagua.

Obtaining a permit. Transfer to Puente del Inca. Departure to the National Park. Equipment is carried to the base camp on mules. We will make the first trek to Confluence (3400 m). There is a shower and electricity, no mobile communication, but vouchers for internet connection are sold. Overnight in tents. Travel time is 2.5-3 hours, 9 km. Height gain 500m.

A long trek to Plaza de Mulas. Departure at 7:00. The trail goes along the river bed, a rocky and sandy path. The alpine camp is set up in a safe place, near an ancient glacier. The approach to the camp is along a steep rocky path. On the way, we will make a long stop and have a snack. The Plaza Mulas camp is a large lawn on the moraine of the glacier, where several companies are located. Everything here is quite civilized: there is electricity, Internet, mobile communications, a shower with hot water, a massage room, a café with wine, a helipad and even an art gallery containing works by the artist Miguel Doura. During the season, about 5,000 travelers from all over the world gather here.
Travel time – 8-9 hours, 20 km. Height gain 900m.

The first half of the day is rest and preparation for the ascent. We gather strength before lunch. After the transition to 5000 meters to Canada. The path takes about 2.5-3 hours. We set up tents. From here there is a gorgeous view of the sunset, and we will watch it. In drought, there is a problem with water in the camp, so it may be necessary to bring water from Plaza Mulas.
Travel time – 3 hours, 3 km. Height gain 800 m.

Today is a short walking day, so it is better to slowly make the trek to Tsvet, 5950 m. This camp is located just below the Kolera camp, but it is cleaner, there are fewer people here and this place is more protected from the wind. In addition, we know an alternative path that goes a short way to the summit. It is from this point that the ascent to the summit begins. Preparation for the important day tomorrow. Early lights out. There is no water in the camp, so most likely we will have to melt snow.

Early night rise and departure. We usually leave at 3:30 -4 am to go ahead of the main crowds of tourists and not throw stones at each other. Dawn will meet us on the road, somewhere at an altitude of 6400-6500.
The assault consists of several parts:
— crossing along a rocky easy path to Puenta Inca (6400 m);
— Smooth climb, but difficult due to the difficult road.
— We go in crampons to the Grotto (6650 m);
— The final section of Canaleta with a steep path and areas with ice and snow. You may need crampons.
The ascent to Aconcagua takes on average 8-10 hours. The control time of the ascent is 14-15 hours. If you do not have time to climb in this time, the guide has the right to turn you around at any point on the route.
We are at the top. We admire the landscape, take some time for photos, and rejoice at a small victory. We remember what it looks like to make a dream come true. We descend along the ascent route to the Berlin camp, the descent takes 3-4 hours on average. Overnight in tents.
The trek takes 12-14 hours, 14 km, drop 1900m.

Descent to Plaza de Mulas.

Today is the most fun day, when you need to walk about 30 km. Departure from the camp no later than 10:00. We head back to the exit of the National Park. The transition will last about 6-7 hours.
Late evening transfer to Mendoza. Finally, a night in a hotel on a soft bed.