Overview and list of equipment on Mont Blanc

Author: Kramarenko Alexander

Mountain guide to the Crimea, the Caucasus (Elbrus, Elbrus, Kazbek, Ushba, Ushguli), the Alps (Chamonix Valley, Mont Blanc, Matterhorn), Tien Shan (Tuyuk-Su region), Carpathians (Ukraine and Romania).

Sports experience: Candidate for Master of Sports in mountaineering, 1st rank in rock climbing, 2nd rank in climbing in cross-country skiing. Instructor-methodologist for mountaineering category 3, alpine skiing instructor category “C” at APGIU, work experience as a guide – 3 years. Member of the coaching council of a/k “Odessa”.

The list of equipment is quite impressive and was compiled based on the experience of repeated ascents of Mont Blanc du Tacul ( 4248 m), Matterhorn (4478 m), Dent Du Geant (4013 m) and of course directly to Mont Blanc ( 4810 m). Preparing equipment and clothing is an important component of a successful climb, as a result of which you will receive an unforgettable impression and experience of conquering the peaks of the majestic Mont Blanc.

Area Overview

The summit of Mont Blanc is attractive to a large number of people as the highest mountain in Western Europe. Thanks to the not critically high altitude of 4810 meters, the presence of simple routes and comfortable huts along the ascent route, climbing Mont Blanc is considered accessible even for beginners who have undergone initial training and acclimatization.

But many also underestimate Mont Blanc. After climbing Kilimanjaro or trekking in Nepal, the 4810m altitude is relaxing. And then, when difficulties arise that people are not prepared for, they have to turn around and go down. Unpreparedness for difficulties often lies in the initially incorrect selection of clothing and equipment before the climb.

In this article we will take a detailed look at all the necessary equipment and clothing that you need to climb Mont Blanc. We’ll tell you which model is better to buy in order to be safe, feel comfortable and enjoy the climbing process.

Let’s immediately make a reservation that we are talking about climbing Mont Blanc in the summer season, from June to September. In other months, you will likely need more warm clothing and different shoes. Equipment for climbing using huts along simple standard routes will be described in detail. If you plan to spend the night in tents and/or climb along a non-standard route, then you will have a slightly different set of things.

We will start with the most important thing – the legs, and gradually move up through the body parts.

Lower body

The most important part of a climber’s equipment when climbing Mont Blanc is boots and crampons. And boots with crampons are best considered as one whole. Only if you securely attach the crampons to your boots will you feel confident on the steep snow slopes and narrow ridges of Mont Blanc.

Climbing boots

You need boots that are definitely designed for mountaineering. They have a special hard last and a good sole, which allows the boot to stand steadily and not slip off rocky ledges. Hiking boots will not work! No matter how good they are.

Climbing shoes also come in different forms: for summer rocks, for ice routes, for climbing to medium heights, high-altitude boots, etc. We are interested in boots for climbing up to 6000 m. These are not the lightest boots for climbing, but they are not high-altitude shoes either. Boots for so-called classic mountaineering.

It is better to take boots with a good membrane to prevent your feet from sweating.

For summer ascents to Mont Blanc we recommend the following boots: La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX, Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX. Or models from other manufacturers that will be similar to the models shown.

Before buying shoes, you need to try them on, walk around the store for 20 minutes, stand on your toes, there are often special podiums with artificial stones on which you can try to walk. And you need to take boots of your size, measure them on with one thick sock. Don’t buy boots that are 2 sizes too big or too tight.

Climbing crampons

Climbing Mont Blanc in summer along simple routes usually involves walking on steep snow, snow ridges, and sometimes snow-covered rocks. For this you need regular walking crampons. Cats are soft, semi-automatic and automatic. They differ in the type of attachment to the boot. The boot must also be designed for a certain type of crampon fastening. For the soft type – any boot, for the semi-automatic – a boot with a back welt, for the automatic – a boot with a front and back welt. Any type of crampon fastening is suitable for us, the main thing is that they sit as tightly as possible on the sole of the boot and do not dangle. It will be ideal if you choose crampons and you will wear boots at the same time.

For summer ascents of Mont Blanc, together with the above boots, we recommend crampons: Petzl Vasak, Grivel G10 Wide. Or models from other manufacturers.

IMPORTANT! Be sure to try on crampons with your climbing boot. Many modern crampons have semi-circular connecting strips, which do not fit all boots.

Climbing socks

Any thick and warm socks made of synthetic materials will do. It is better to use functional socks that wick away moisture better and also have some useful properties. These are trekking socks or “thermal socks”. It is better to choose warmer socks. One pair is enough for the climb. Wearing several socks on your feet at once is not recommended.

For summer climbs on Mont Blanc we recommend socks: Teko Expedition Merino Socks, Smartwool PhD® Pro Mountaineer Socks, X-SOCKS Trek Expedition Socks.

We’ve sorted out the boots, crampons and socks, now let’s go higher: pants and underpants. In mountaineering, multi-layer clothing is used. Each layer performs its own function or several: protection from cold, moisture removal, wind protection, moisture protection, sun protection. Also, thanks to multi-layering, we can quickly choose the optimal clothes for weather conditions that can change every hour. It’s cold – we put on another layer, it’s hot – we take off one or more layers, etc.

Climbing Pants

Climbing pants will act as a top layer – protecting your legs from cold, wind and precipitation. At the same time, to climb Mont Blanc in the summer on our feet, we need more protection from wind and precipitation. It is better to wear pants without much insulation.

Pants made of a thick membrane without insulation are suitable for us. It’s good if the pants have special zippers for better ventilation, and lightweight self-release zippers are also suitable.

For summer climbs on Mont Blanc we recommend the following pants: Patagonia Men’s Simul Alpine Pants, Rab Kinetic Alpine Pants, Black Diamond Liquid Point Pants.

Underpants

For insulation and optimal moisture removal, we use the inner layer of clothing on the legs – underpants or thermal underwear. Any thermal underwear that performs the above functions is suitable: warmth and moisture removal. It is better to buy good functional thermal underwear, you will feel comfortable in it.

For summer climbs on Mont Blanc we recommend underpants: Apani Merino by X-BIONIC Fastflow Long, CRAFT Warm Intensity Long.

Underwear

Of course, you can use any underwear you like. But it will be better to wear a special one, which, like underpants, will perform the functions of preserving heat and removing moisture.

For summer climbs on Mont Blanc we recommend the following underwear: Smartwool Merino 150 Boxer Brief, Craft Greatness Boxer.

Upper body

Moving on to the upper body. The upper body includes the equipment that we wear or carry in our hands. This is a harness and an ice axe. You may also have personal equipment on the safety system: carbines, self-belays, etc. We do not consider personal equipment in this article, as its set will be different for different routes. Therefore, be sure to check with the organizer about the set of personal special equipment before the start of the tour.

Lifehack: when packing at home, or just before climbing Mont Blanc, you can use the same system of checking clothes and equipment so as not to forget anything. We think to ourselves: “Bottom to top in order: boots – crampons – socks – thermal underwear for the legs – storm pants – special underwear – harness, ice ax, backpack, thermal underwear for the body, fleece, storm jacket, insulated jacket, gloves, spare mittens , buff, glasses, hat, helmet.” Thanks to the fact that you will have a clear check sequence, the chance of forgetting something is reduced.

Safety system

For our purposes, any safety system designed for mountaineering will be suitable. There are systems for construction work, military, etc., it is better not to take them, they are too heavy and may not have the necessary functions.

An important feature of the safety system is its size and the possibility of its adjustment. The system should fit snugly when you are wearing thin fleece and the same when you are wearing a thick down jacket. You can choose a system with less weight, so it will be easier for you on the approaches and during the ascent itself.

For summer ascents of Mont Blanc we recommend the following harness: Petzl Sitta, Black Diamond Technician Harness.

Ice ax

To navigate safely on the glacier, steep snow slopes and narrow ridges of Mont Blanc, you need an ice ax. You need a classic ice ax with a straight or slightly curved shaft. And with a slight beak angle.

An important feature of an ice ax is its length. We recommend choosing the length of the ice ax in such a way that you stand straight, holding the ice ax in a straight hand, and reach it with the bayonet 5 cm above your ankle. With such an ice ax it will be convenient to walk and hack.

Also, as always, we look at the weight. Lower is better, but you can’t take ultra-light models, they are designed for something else.

For summer ascents to Mont Blanc we recommend an ice ax: Petzl Summit, Black Diamond Raven Ice Axe.

Climbing backpack

To fit all the necessary things and equipment for climbing, you need a backpack of 30-40 liters, definitely designed for mountaineering. Nothing will fit into a 30-liter city backpack and you can’t attach an ice ax with crampons to it.

For summer climbs on Mont Blanc we recommend backpack as: Black Diamond Speed 30 Pack, Camp M3.

If you plan to spend the night in tents, you need a separate backpack or a larger backpack, 50 liters.

Watch

For safety reasons, every climber needs to keep track of time and have a wristwatch. A watch that can work in the cold without recharging for more than 7 days is suitable.

Thermal underwear

Thermal underwear is the first layer of clothing that we will put on the upper body. It should be pleasant to the touch, retain some heat and wick away moisture well. Just like with underpants, it is better to buy good functional thermal underwear. Underpants and thermal underwear for the body can be from one set.

For summer ascents to Mont Blanc we recommend thermal underwear:  Apani Merino by X-BIONIC Fastflow Roundneck, Craft Warm Intensity Crewneck.

Fleece

Second layer after thermal underwear. By “fleece” we mean a warm jacket made from modern materials. They maintain optimal body temperature even better, wick away moisture and may have some protection from wind or rain.

For our purposes, any jacket made from modern synthetic materials that perform the functions described above is suitable. It will be good if it is high-quality and highly functional material. One of these is Polartec and its variations.

For summer climbs on Mont Blanc we recommend fleece: Rab Power Stretch Pro Jacket, Patagonia Crosstrek Fleece Hoody.

Storm jacket

The third top layer of our multi-layer clothing structure. The jacket should provide good protection from wind and precipitation, wick away moisture and retain some heat. Modern membrane fabrics, such as Gore-Tex and others, handle these tasks well.

For climbing Mont Blanc in summer, it is better to choose a jacket without obvious insulation. It is better to transfer additional insulation to the fourth layer – a separate warm jacket made of down or synthetic insulation. Ski and snowboard jackets don’t fit well and are too warm and heavy.

For summer climbs on Mont Blanc we recommend a storm jacket: Rab Latok DV Jacket, Black Diamond Helio Active Shell, Patagonia Triolet Jacket.

Insulated jacket

For additional insulation, you need to have a warm, light jacket with down or synthetic filling. Simply put, you need a medium-sized puff. It can be worn over a storm jacket in the morning, when it is coldest, or in case of a sharp deterioration in the weather. Such a jacket should compress well and fit into your backpack, along with other things. It is better to have a mountaineering down jacket with FP 600 down or better.

For summer climbs on Mont Blanc, we recommend an insulated jacket: Rab Neutrino Pro Jacket, Mountain Equipment Vega Jacket.

Gloves and mittens

In good weather on Mont Blanc, regular insulated gloves are sufficient. But to feel comfortable, it’s good to have 3 pairs of gloves:

1. Thin gloves made of dense fabric for approaching and moving along rocky terrain.

For summer climbs on Mont Blanc we recommend thin gloves: Black Diamond Crag Gloves, Climbing Technology Progrip Plus, Petzl Cordex.

2. Thick warm gloves for climbing. So that you can carry an ice ax, do something with your hands and at the same time be warm at altitude 4000+.

For summer ascents to Mont Blanc we recommend warm gloves: Black Diamond Torrent Gloves, The North Face Patrol Glove.

3. Warm mittens for emergencies or when it’s too cold for gloves. Mittens are always warmer than gloves.

For summer climbs on Mont Blanc we recommend these mittens: Black Diamond Glissade Mitts, The North Face Montana Gore-Tex Mitts.

If you don’t have such a selection of gloves and mittens, then points 2 and 3 can be combined. Take either warm gloves or mittens.

Neck and head

We will have clothes on our neck and head that keep us warm and protect us from the wind. As well as equipment for sun protection – glasses, for head protection – a helmet, for light – a headlamp.

Buff

To protect the neck and lower part of the face, you need a buff or balaclava. Or both. There is no need to buy a special balaclava; it is easily replaced with a buff and usually it is good to wear a balaclava, only in severe bad weather or wind. Depending on how cold you feel, you can take a light or insulated buff.

For summer ascents of Mont Blanc we recommend the buff: Buff Reversible Polar Neckwarmer, Mammut Thermo Neck Gaiter.

Glasses

A must for climbing Mont Blanc. Glasses with a protection factor of 3 or higher are suitable. It is better to choose models with frames designed for mountaineering. In case of sudden bad weather and strong winds, you can take a ski mask with you.

For summer ascents of Mont Blanc we recommend the following glasses: Julbo Explorer 2.0.

A cap

To protect your head from the cold, you need a hat made of synthetic material. A light hat is enough to be worn comfortably under a helmet.

Helmet

It is very important to understand that the dangers in mountaineering are very different from the dangers of skiing, rafting, etc. Therefore, to climb Mont Blanc you need a helmet designed specifically for mountaineering. Skiing, cycling, rafting, etc. helmets will not for.

You must try on a helmet before purchasing/renting. When you turn your head, the helmet should sit firmly and not wobble. It’s good if it’s easy.

For summer ascents of Mont Blanc we recommend the following helmet: Petzl Meteor, Black Diamond Vector Helmet.

Headlamp

Climbing Mont Blanc usually starts at 4:00 am and is planned to be done at night, so be sure to have a headlamp with you. It is attached to the top of the helmet. The flashlight should have fresh batteries.

For summer climbs on Mont Blanc we recommend the following headlamp: Black Diamond Spot, Petzl Actik.

In a backpack

In addition to the above, it is worth highlighting separately the things that you will have with you in your backpack.

IMPORTANT! Every climber should have a backpack and this set of contents. You cannot carry one backpack between two people or give your water to a friend to carry.

Mandatory contents of a backpack when climbing:

• sunscreen for the face with a protection factor of 30 or more;
• water container 0.7 – 1.5 liters;
• snack. Chocolate, candy, sandwich, etc. Count on 2 snacks;
• personal first aid kit. Perhaps you have special medications that only you need;
• mobile phone. In contacts there is a number of rescuers;
• insurance. All you need is a phone number to call and your full name on a piece of paper;
• money.

Additional contents of the backpack during the ascent:

• warm mittens;
• thermos with tea;
• spare batteries for the flashlight;
• ski mask;
• camera;
• hand and foot warmers;
• chapstick.

Clothes for going out into the city

It is not always pleasant to walk in mountain clothes in the valley and on approaches when it is still warm. Therefore, you need to take with you to Chamonix:

• trekking sneakers. For the city and approaches to the huts;
• spare socks;
• trekking lightweight pants. For the city and approaches to the huts;
• several T-shirts. It’s good to have a long-sleeve shirt so your arms don’t get burned in the sun;
• sun hat;
• change of underwear.

Overnight in a tent

All of the above is needed on the day of the ascent, or for the entire ascent if you are spending the night in mountain shelters. If you plan to spend the night in tents, then you will additionally need:

• tent;
• sleeping bag Comfort temperature +5 and below.
• rug;
• utensils for cooking;
• burner;
• food utensils;
• devices;
• extra food.

That’s all you need to climb Mont Blanc in the summer. Before your trip, in any case, consult your instructor, guide or experienced friend about equipment and clothing.

We wish you a pleasant, safe and exciting holiday. See you at the top!