Equipment list for Aconcagua and Ojos del Salado

26/09/2024

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List of equipment for warm almost 7000m Aconcagua and Ojos Del Salado in South America. This list is quite extensive and is based on my multiple expeditions to Aconcagua and Ojos Del Salado. In general, this list is universal and with minor additions/changes will be suitable for climbing any 6000-k and warm 7000-k in any part of the planet Earth. The peculiarity of climbing in South America, in particular on Ojos and Aconcagua, is the sharply continental, dry climate (climbing season is December-February). During the day in the mountains and valleys it is very hot, precipitation is unlikely, and at night the temperature very quickly tends to 0 degrees, and sometimes even lower, if you take the altitudes above 4000 m. Although short-term precipitation in the form of rain and snow can also occur. Therefore, the set of clothes will be very diverse: from a swimsuit and pareo to a down jacket for 7000-800 m. Let’s start with the fact that for the ascent you will have several sets of things: a set of light city clothes: shirts, T-shirts and shorts, a set of trekking clothes and shoes that you will use at altitudes of 3000-5000 m, a set of basic clothes for the ascent, a separate set of things for bivouac/sleep. Let’s start in order, with trekking clothes and base layers.
This is a near-perfect gear list. I will consider the main points, without lipstick, cream and hygiene items.

Base layers

T-shirts and thermal underwear

When trekking, all you need is a couple of T-shirts made of synthetic, breathable materials and the required amount of underwear made of regular cotton.

For the ascent, girls are not recommended to wear thongs and bikinis. Boxer shorts are optimal, they can be made of breathable materials or merino. During the ascent, you will use different combinations of functional underwear (thermal underwear), which will keep you warm and remove excess moisture. During high activity, I prefer lightweight underwear that removes moisture as much as possible. I do not like very tight compression underwear. For long hikes, I recommend looser underwear.

Cotton T-shirt for sleeping and relaxing in the evening at the lodge.

On my legs, as an extra layer, were the fleece pants I slept in. Catch Ben 100, made from Polartec Classic 100 materials.

Socks

As for the main walking socks, I didn’t bother and used regular trekking socks from Decatlone, there were several pairs of them, which I successfully washed during the rest days. During the climb to Island Peak I wore warmer socks from Lorpen Lorpen T2W (37.5% Merino Wool, 37.5% Acrylic, 15% Nylon, 10%), which seemed cold to me on Amadablam and of course it’s better to wear something for the assault warmer for example, Lorpen T3HTM (51% Primaloft, 29% Nylon, 10% MerinoWool, 10% Stretch Nylon with Lycra). For sleeping, I had warm, fleece socks Catch Polartec PowerStretch PRO. They are very pleasant to the touch, and they just felt good and comfortable in the evenings, sitting near the stove in the lodge.

Gloves

When crossing in the valley, any thin gloves will do as protection from dust and ultraviolet radiation. Without them, the skin dries very quickly in the wind + sun. Above 5000 m thin gloves will not be enough so you need a pair of warm fleece/polartec gloves

Head

Below I usually wear a regular baseball cap, sometimes I put a buff on my neck. Above 5000 your constant companion will be made of classic polartec.

You regulate the number of fleeces and thermal underwear sets yourself. It is optimal to have 2-3 sets of underwear and 2-3 fleeces for a long program.

Top layer, insulation

Over thermal underwear/T-shirt I will wear a hybrid sweater Catch Bruni Mex (it can be any warm sweater made of Polartec materials and similar ones, it is convenient when there is a hood). Its main feature is a hybrid design that combines front panels made of G-Loft insulation and the main part of the product is made of Polartec High Loft. Due to the combination of materials, the sweater, while being lightweight, combines good thermal insulation qualities and wicks away excess moisture well. The sweater is very stylish, so I also spent a lot of time in the city in it.

обзор снаряжения, выбор снаряжения на аконкагуа и охос дель саладо

Pants

At the bottom, on trekking, there are regular, synthetic pants that weigh nothing and will be blown through.

Jacket

Above the thermal underwear I put on a membrane jacket Marmot gore-tex pro, which protects well from wind and moisture, and removes moisture well due to additional ventilation holes. This combination was enough for me up to 5500 m.

On the day of the Aconcagua ascent I used a combination of thermal underwear bottom + fleece pants + primaloft Montane flux pants. These three layers are practically impenetrable for wind and cold.
Montane flux pants are convenient because they can be put on over all layers without taking off shoes (self-dumping) and you can regulate the temperature by means of ventilation. This is very important on the descent from the summit, when the temperature can change in a positive direction.

Another combination for the mountain is: thermal underwear, regular running pants/softshell and on top of all this, as insulation, self-dumping membrane or softshell, which you put on top if the weather conditions change or, on the contrary, just as quickly take off. As an option, you can use a combination of thermal underwear + fleece + softshell.

Jacket

As the top layer in Aconagua, clothing made from membrane fabrics such as GoreTex and similar membranes with waterproof/vapor conductivity characteristics of 15000/15000 and higher is preferred.

Warm layers

Down sweater

For camps and trekking in the valley, it is good to take with you a regular down sweater/primaloft with an insulation weight of 150-200 grams, which you will wear during stops and in the evening at the lodge.

Warm jacket

Down or primaloft. The amount of down is 800-850 FP, not less than 400 grams of down in the product. Jackets can be combined and worn together if necessary. It is important that the main warm jacket is loose and does not restrict movement (when choosing a jacket, it is very good to put on two fleeces under it to understand how it will fit you in hiking conditions). A hood is required, and the jacket should cover your lower back and buttocks as much as possible. I have been using the Montane Deep heat jacket for several years now. It is very compact, lightweight and designed for altitudes up to 7000 m.

Mittens and gloves

As insulation for my hands, I used softshell uppers from fram-equip most of the time. The convenience of these uppers is that they have a slit in the palms, thanks to which, without removing the mittens, you can do more precise work. Warmth for your hands + protection from moisture.

I almost never used warm mittens, but they were there. I took a pair of Broad from fram-equip with me. They are made with reinforcement on the palms, the filler is synthetic, which allows you to use them in any weather.

Down shorts

For girls and those who are afraid of freezing, I recommend taking down shorts (primaloft). Protection of your 5th point of support during long waits, strong winds and sudden changes in weather.

Shoes

Crocs for showers and overnight stays in lodges
Trekking boots for acclimatization and approaches to the base camp.
Basic high-altitude footwear. Boots should be double-layered and insulated. For several years now I have been wearing Lasportiva G2 SM, which hold the foot perfectly on various terrain, and keep the heat well at altitudes of 6000 m and above. The inner boot is removable. For more information on choosing high-altitude footwear on Aconcagua and Ojos, watch the video

The rest

Glasses

It is very good to have a pair of chameleon glasses. For example, julbo shield, such glasses are comfortable in valleys in low light, and also protect well from excess light high on glaciers. Protection category 2-4. You can simply have two pairs of glasses – regular ones for hiking in the valley and high-altitude ones with protection category 4.

Ski mask

A necessary thing in case of a snowstorm and as a spare accessory in case of loss of the main glasses. Protection category 3-4.

Buff/headband.

It is very good to breathe through the buff when there is cold air, wind, additional protection for the face instead of a balaclava. Can be used as a headdress, scarf and towel, and sometimes as a swimsuit and swimming trunks :).

Hermetic bag

Dry bags allow you to protect things from moisture and easily pack them; it is optimal to have 2 pieces of 20 l each.

Emergency Rescue Blanket

An isothermal blanket made of aluminum foil, where you will want to hide in an extreme situation.

Спасательное одеяло Emergency blanket ZARYS

Headlamp

Any flashlight that has a clear and logical system of switching modes, “red light” and a brightness of 100 lm.

Camp

Sleeping bag

After a series of experiments, I realized that the optimal sleeping bag for altitudes of 6000-7000 m is one with a filler (down) weight of 800-1000 grams, 800-850 FP. With this amount of down, the sleeping bag will maintain your temperature at -10 … -20 C. The total weight of the sleeping bag is 1200-1600 grams. There is no point in taking warmer sleeping bags, as they will take up more space and are heavier. In fact, you will have 2-3 nights at altitudes of 6000 m or more, but during these couple of days you can sleep in your clothes. The main thing is to insulate your feet well: put mittens on your feet, wrap them in a down sweater, put your feet in a backpack.

You can also buy a sheet – a liner, which is the size of a mug, weighs 150 grams, but adds an average of 5 degrees of heat to what is already there.

Foam pad

Any pad (inflatable or foam) weighing up to 500 grams and with thermal insulation R-value over 3. The Izhevskiy don’t chose :).

Tableware

Spoon, mug, knife. I’m inclined to think that you can easily live on freeze-dried food for a couple of days.
A metal flask for water, 1.5 l. This volume is enough for me, on average, for 10-12 hours of climbing. Pour hot water in the morning and put the flask in a warm mitten, you will have a warm drink for 3-5 hours, this is enough to warm the body at night.

Thermos

Upon request. On average, a liter thermos weighs 500-700 grams without water, one liter is usually not enough to drink. Therefore, it is up to you to carry an additional 500 grams on yourself.

Backpack and bags

It is very convenient to go on a trek/expedition with a duffel bag, and even more convenient if it is on wheels. Volume 100 liters or more. A porter will carry some of your things during the climb; carrying a suitcase is not as convenient as a duffel bag made of soft PVC fabric.

Basic backpack

Mountaineering backpack with a capacity of 40-45 liters. Here you will put your personal belongings, sleeping bag, mat, food and some equipment for a period of 4-5 days (assault). The backpack should have adjustable straps, a belt, a flap that can be unfastened and a tube. For example, the Black Diamond Speed 40 backpack or the fram-equip Lukla 38 backpack. The backpack is very light and comfortable. You can watch a separate video for more information on choosing a backpack.

штурмовой рюкзак аконкагуа, выбор рюкзака аконкагуа

Special equipment

Mountaineering system (for Ojos Del Salado)

A comfortable system that fits over all your layers, with the ability to adjust the legs. You can take a lightweight one like the Petzl Altitude.

anchoring ropes (Ojos Del Salado) – 1 pc. One long 120 cm. Can be made from loops, or buy ready-made structures.

Protective climbing helmet. Any helmet that will protect you from possible rocks that are often thrown by your comrades or groups that are higher up.
Crampons. Any 10-tooth crampons, aluminum ones are fine, the lighter and easier to put on your high-altitude boots. You may not need them at all, it all depends on the changing snow conditions at the summit. For example: Petzl Irvis Hybrid LLU, Camp Xlc Nanotech