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Oleg Ivanchenko

Founder of the Adventure Team “Extreme Guide”, mountain guide. Odessa city
5.0 (86)
Specialization:Hiking, climbing, rock climbing, skiing and ski touring, kayaking
Regions:North Caucasus and Georgia, Nepal, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, France, Switzerland, Italy, Morocco, Egypt, Iran, Argentina, Chile, Peru and Bolivia
Sports experience:in tourism since 2002, candidate master of sports in mountain tourism.

Guide-graduate student of IFMGA (KMGA), mountain tourism instructor since 2006, mountaineering experience since 2007, working as a guide since 2008. Completed β€œfirst aid courses in isolated areas”, 2017 and 2019.

Among the TOP 60 most popular mountaineering experts in the world in 2025.

More than 20 ascents of Mont Blanc, about ten ascents of the Matterhorn, over 20 ascents of Elbrus (mostly in winter), 5 ascents of Ama Dablam, and 2 ascents of Everest.
His background includes participation in mountain and ski expeditions, climbs up to Grade 5 in Crimea, the Carpathians, the Himalayas, the Altai, the Caucasus, the Pamirs, and the Tien Shan, as well as participation in various sports competitions. He has extensive experience in organizing sports events, tourist rallies, and quests.
Participation in Grade 6 mountain expeditions in Central Tien Shan, leadership of a Grade 5 expedition in the Caucasus, and participation in a Grade 4 ski expedition in the Subpolar Urals.
Mountaineering: leadership of a Grade 5A climb.
Among the notable climbs: a solo ascent of Ama Dablam (6812 m) via the classic route, 5A, in 2016, Nepal; Khan Tengri (7005 m) via the classic southern route, 5B, in 2014, Central Tien Shan; West Pobeda Peak β€” 5A, up to 6500 m, Central Tien Shan, 2014; Lenin Peak β€” 5A via Razdelnaya up to 6200 m, 2010, Pamirs.
Also: Aconcagua in 2019, 2020, 2022; Ojos del Salado in 2018, 2019, 2020; Cotopaxi and Chimborazo in Ecuador in 2021; Orizaba in Mexico in 2021. Multiple ascents of Nepalese 6000-meter peaks from 2015 to 2025: Mera Peak, Island Peak, Thapa, Dormo Ri.

2021 – Nepal, Lhotse main (8516 m) – an oxygen-free attempt to climb up to 7900 m (deep snow above 1m did not allow climbing higher).

2023 – сlimbing Everest (8848 m) from Nepal, as a guide and organizer.

2024 – climbing Mount Denali (McKinley until 2015) (6190 m), Alaska.

2024 – climbing Manaslu (8163 m), Nepal.

2024 – climbing Mount McKinley (McKinley until 2015, Denali until 2025) (6190 m), Alaska, as a guide and organizer.

2025 – climbing Annapurna (8091 m), as a guide and organizer (reached 7600 m due to weather conditions).

2025 – climbing Everest (8,848 m) from Nepal, as a guide and organizer.

Experience in rescue operations in Nepal at 7,900 meters, in Everest’s assault camp.
He has repeatedly completed courses in first aid in the mountains. He has conducted many experiments with medications in high-altitude conditions on his own body, so he knows how to administer not only dexamethasone injections :).

Favorite mountain area, country: Himalayas, Fann Mountains (Tajikistan), Chamonix (France).

About myself:

Β«It all started with the fact that tourism filled 2/3 of my life, except for sleep and study. And while still a student, I spent a total of 180 days in the mountains and on trips. Hiking, instructor school, competitions all went together. Then work began to interfere with tourism, and I thought that something needs to be changed. This is how the “Extreme Guide” appeared. Then I realized that a guide in the mountains is such a β€œseller of happiness”. I realized that β€œselling happiness” to people is my mission and calling. Now it is difficult to imagine myself in the office working in my specialty. But with two “red” diplomas, I could be a cool engineer…As a result, most of my life I have been linked to tourism and mountaineering.Β»

Hobby: I take pictures and shoot videos, they say well :). Yoga and kayaking at sea.

About Oleg: character is solid, Nordic, balanced, fond of photography and video filming.

Life credo, basic principles at working with people: At traveling is veryimportant to be open to changes, then you can better understand the country, the mountainous region where you arrived. Safety, adventure and a positive result for each member of the group.

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