Equipment list for Amadablam and Nepal’s 6000s

30/09/2025

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My gear list for Amadablam. This list is quite extensive and is based on my many years of experience in Nepal climbing 6000-meter peaks like Island Peak, Mera Peak, Lobuche, and, of course, Ama Dablam. Overall, this list is universal and, with minor additions/modifications, is suitable for climbing any 6000-7000-meter peak in Nepal, 6000-7000 meters in South America, and Lenin Peak and Khan Tengri. Let’s start with the fact that you’ll need several sets of clothing for the climb: a set of trekking clothes and boots for use at altitudes up to 5000-6000 meters, a set of basic climbing clothes, and a separate set of clothes for bivouac/sleeping. Let’s start in order, with trekking clothes and base layers.

This is a practically perfect gear list. I’ll cover the main points, excluding lipstick, lotion, and hygiene supplies.

Base layers

T-shirts and thermal underwear

While trekking, all you need is a couple of T-shirts made of breathable synthetic materials and the required amount of underwear made of regular cotton.

Women are advised not to wear thongs or bikinis when climbing. Ideally, boxer shorts, made of breathable materials or merino. During the climb, you’ll need to wear various combinations of functional underwear (thermal underwear) to keep you warm and wick away excess moisture. During intense activity, I prefer lightweight underwear that wicks away moisture as much as possible. I don’t like tight, compression-type underwear. For longer hikes, I recommend looser underwear.

For example, on this year’s spring expedition, I discovered thermal underwear from the domestic manufacturer CATCH. I had a set: a Catch Frodi thermal jumper made of Polartec Power Wool Midweight and pants made of the same material. It wicked moisture well while still keeping me warm during periods of low activity, at stations, and during rest stops.

For sleeping and during the climb, I wore warmer underwear, the Catch Gardi Zip, made from Polartec Power Grid Hiwarmth material.

Cotton T-shirt for sleeping and relaxing in the evening at the lodge.

On my legs, as an extra layer, were the fleece pants I slept in. Catch Ben 100, made from Polartec Classic 100 materials.

Socks

I didn’t bother with my main walking socks and used regular Decatlone trekking socks; I had several pairs, which I successfully washed during rest days. During the ascent of Island Peak, I wore warmer socks from Lorpen Lorpen T2W (37.5% Merino Wool, 37.5% Acrylic, 15% Nylon, 10%), which I found cold on Amadablam, and of course, for the summit push, it’s better to wear something warmer, such as Lorpen T3HTM (51% Primaloft, 29% Nylon, 10% MerinoWool, 10% Stretch Nylon with Lycra). For sleeping, I wore warm, fleece socks from Catch Polartec PowerStretch PRO. They are very pleasant to the touch, and they were simply nice and comfortable in the evenings, sitting by the stove in the lodge.

Gloves

On hikes in the valley, I used thin Catch gloves made of Polartec Power Grid material for protection from dust and UV rays, but any thin gloves will do. Without them, the wind and sun dry out my skin very quickly. Above 5,000 meters, thin gloves weren’t enough, so I wore Columbia fleece gloves with omni-heat.

It’s also a good idea to bring a separate pair of leather gloves for rope handling on Amadablam. Since you’ll be doing a lot of jumaring and rappelling here, regular fleece gloves wear out quickly.

Head

Below, I usually wear a regular baseball cap or cap, sometimes with a neck buff. Above, my constant companion has been a Catch Vagni hat made of classic Polartec. It’s very comfortable, fits well under a helmet, is lightweight, breathable, and keeps you warm.

Top layer, insulation

Over my thermal underwear/T-shirt, I wore a Catch Bruni Mex hybrid jacket (any warm jacket made of Polartec or similar materials is fine; a hood is handy). Its main feature is its hybrid construction, which combines front panels made of G-Loft insulation with the main body of Polartec High Loft. Thanks to this combination of materials, the jacket offers excellent insulation and moisture wicking while remaining lightweight. The jacket is very stylish, so I spent a lot of time in it around town.

Pants

On the trekking trail, I wore regular synthetic pants that were lightweight and breathable.
Higher up, I wore a softshell over my thermals, which provided good wind protection and a bit of warmth, but wasn’t always very moisture-wicking. This combination lasted me up to 5,500 m.

On the day of the Island Peak and Ama Dablam ascent, I wore a combination of thermal underwear, fleece pants, and Primaloft Montane Flux pants. These three layers are virtually impenetrable to wind and cold.
The Montane Flux pants are convenient because they can be worn over all layers without removing shoes (they’re self-shedding) and allow temperature regulation thanks to the ventilation. This is especially important on the descent from the summit, when the temperature can fluctuate positively.

Another combination for the mountain is: thermal underwear, regular hiking pants/softshell, and, on top of all this, self-shedding membrane or softshell underwear, which you can put on over it in case the weather changes or, conversely, just as quickly remove. Alternatively, you can use a combination of thermal underwear + fleece + softshell.

Jacket

Softshell clothing is preferable as a top layer on Ama Dablam, as half the route is on a rocky ridge, where there’s a high risk of clothing being worn away by the sharp rocks. For all other areas, a set of high-tech membranes with a waterproof/vapor permeability rating of 15,000/15,000 or higher, or GoreTex, are recommended as top layers.

On our spring expedition to Ama Dablam we used a softshell from fram-equip.

Warm layers

Down sweater

For bivouacs and trekking in the valley, it is good to take with you a regular down sweater/primaloft with an insulation weight of 150-200 grams, which you will wear during stops and in the evening at the lodge.

Warm jacket

Down or Primaloft. The amount of down is 800-850 FP, not less than 400 grams of down in the product. Jackets can be combined and worn together if needed. It’s important that the main warm jacket is loose and doesn’t restrict movement (when choosing a jacket, it’s a good idea to layer two fleeces underneath to get a feel for how it will fit in hiking conditions). A hood is essential, and the jacket should provide maximum coverage for your lower back and buttocks.
I’ve been using the Montane Deep Heat jacket for several years now. It’s very compact, lightweight, and designed for altitudes up to 7,000 m.

Mittens and gloves

For hand warmers, I mostly used softshell gloves from fram-equip. The convenience of these gloves is that they have a cutout in the palms, allowing for more precise work without removing the gloves. They provide warmth and moisture protection.

I hardly ever used warm mittens, but I did have them. I brought a pair of Broad mittens from fram-equip. They have reinforced palms and synthetic padding, making them suitable for all-weather use.

Down shorts

For women and those worried about freezing, I recommend down shorts (Primaloft). They’ll protect your 5th point of support during long waits, strong winds, and sudden weather changes.

Shoes

Crocs for showers and overnight stays in lodges.
Trekking boots for acclimatization and approaches to base camp.
Essential high-altitude footwear. Boots should be double-layered and insulated. For several years now, I’ve been wearing Lasportiva G2 SM, which provide excellent support on various terrain and retain heat well at altitudes of 6,000 m and above. The liner is removable.

Other

Glasses

It’s a good idea to have a pair of chameleon-like sunglasses. For example, Julbo Shield, which are comfortable in valleys in low light and also provide good protection from excess light high up on glaciers. Protection categories 2-4. You can simply have two pairs of sunglasses: standard ones for valley hikes and high-altitude ones with protection category 4.

Ski mask

A must-have item for a snowstorm and as a backup accessory in case your main glasses are lost. Protection category 3-4.

Buff/bandage

The buff is great for breathing in cold and windy weather, and provides additional face protection in place of a balaclava. It can be used as a hat, scarf, towel, and sometimes as a swimsuit or swimming trunks.

Stopper Dry Bag

Dry bags allow you to protect your items from moisture and make them easy to pack; it’s ideal to have two 20-liter bags.

Emergency rescue blanket

An insulated blanket made of aluminum foil that you’ll want to hide in in an extreme situation.

Спасательное одеяло Emergency blanket ZARYS

Headlamp

Any flashlight that has a clear and logical mode switching system, a “red light” and a brightness of at least 100 lm.

Bivouac

Sleeping bag

After some experimentation, I realized that a sleeping bag with a down filling weight of 800-1000 grams and 800-850 FP is optimal for altitudes of 6,000-7,000 meters. With this amount of down, the bag will maintain your temperature at -10 to -20 degrees Celsius. The total weight of the sleeping bag is 1,200-1,600 grams. There’s no point in taking warmer sleeping bags, as they’ll take up more space and be heavier. In reality, you’ll spend 2-3 nights at altitudes of 6,000 meters or higher, but you can sleep fully clothed during those few days. The key is to keep your feet well-insulated: wear mittens, wrap them in a down sweater, and tuck your feet into your backpack.

You can also buy a liner, which is the size of a mug, weighs 150 grams, but adds an average of 5 degrees of warmth to what is already there.

Loam pad

Any mat (inflatable or foam) weighing up to 500 grams and with an R-value greater than 3. The Izhevsk one won’t do.

Dishes

A spoon, mug, and knife. I’m inclined to believe that you can easily survive on freeze-dried food for a couple of days.
A 1.5-liter metal water flask. This capacity is enough for me, on average, for a 10-12-hour climb. Fill it with hot water in the morning and place it in a warm mitten. You’ll have a warm drink for 3-5 hours, enough to keep you warm overnight.

Thermos

Optional. On average, a liter thermos weighs 500-700 grams without water, and one liter is usually not enough to drink. Therefore, it’s up to you to carry the extra 500 grams.

Backpack and bags

It’s very convenient to travel on a trek or expedition with a duffel bag, and even more so if it’s on wheels. It should hold 100 liters or more. A porter will carry some of your belongings during the climb; carrying a suitcase isn’t as comfortable as a duffel bag made of soft PVC fabric.

Main backpack

A mountaineering backpack of 35-45 liters. This will hold your personal belongings, a sleeping bag, a mat, food, and some gear for 4-5 days (the summit push). The backpack should have adjustable straps, a waist belt, a detachable flap, and a tube. In the spring, I used the excellent fram-equip Lukla 38 backpack. It’s very lightweight and comfortable.

Special equipment

Mountainaring Harness

A comfortable system that fits over all your layers, with adjustable legs. You could use a lightweight one like the Petzl Altitude.

Dynamic safety lanyard / Daisy chain – 2 pcs. One long, 120 cm, and the second short, 60 cm. You can make it from loops or buy ready-made structures.

4 carabiners (two large HMS-type)
Reverso-type descender/ATX guide

Ascender / Jumar
Prusik loop

A 3 m foot loop (pedal), 6 mm, or a 100 cm safety loop.
Protective mountaineering helmet
Ice auger – 1 pc.
A classic ice axe (smaller and lighter); ideally, you’ll only need it for a photo shoot at the summit. For example, a Petzl Gully

Good luck with your ascents, everyone!

More information about climbing Ama Dablam can be found at the link.

Author: Mountain guide, founder of Extreme Guide Oleg Ivanchenko