Climbing Ama Dablam (6812 m) Nepal

We recommend arriving on a morning flight so that you have time to rest after a long flight. Transfer to the hotel. Obtaining permits (we do all the preparatory procedures in advance). Preparing equipment, buying the missing ones. An evening of acquaintances, the main briefing before the ascent. Night at the hotel.

The landing at this mountain airfield is impressive in its unusualness. After distributing the luggage and briefly sightseeing, we begin the trek to Phakding (2800 m, about 4 hours). The road leads us through a narrow strip of forest, then steeply descends to the river. Having passed the peak of Kusum Kangra (6367 m), and having rounded the ridge of Ghat (2550 m), the road brings us to Phakding. From Phakding, the path goes north through the valley of the Dud Kosi River. Having passed fields, a waterfall and villages, the road passes through an exotic forest of tall firs, rhododendrons (one of the symbols of Nepal) and blooming magnolias.
If you are lucky, you can see musk deer on the steep cliffs above the river, and water rats in the water. After passing the valley at the foot of Thamserku peak and the stream, the trail leads to the village of Monjo.
Overnight in the loggia

The village of Monjo is where the territory of Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park begins. After passing the village, just beyond the forest the path leads to the confluence of two rivers. Having climbed the steep ridge, you can admire the view of Everest rising behind the Nuptse ridge. Then the road leads to Namche Bazaar, the local district center. Namche Bazaar can be called the capital of the mountain Sherpas of the Khumbu Valley. A very atmospheric place, with its own flavor. There are billiard rooms, cafes and even a pizzeria.
Overnight in the loggia

From Namche Bazaar, climb to Shyang Boche, from where a magnificent panorama of the mountain peaks of Ama Dablam and Everest opens up.
The village of Panchermo is located away from the main flow of the trek to Everest, so this village stands out for its originality and beautiful location.
Overnight in the loggia

The path passes through a picturesque forest, villages, a river. We will walk away from the main flow of tourists and admire the peaks of Thamserku, Ama Dablam and others. If we are lucky, we will meet wild mountain goats along the way.
Overnight in the loggia

After passing through meadows where delightful edelweiss blooms in summer, we reach the village of Pheriche (Feriche), where we will have a snack. Another 2-3 hours and we will reach the village of Dugla, altitude 4600 m. After lunch, walks, rest. There are a lot of yaks grazing in the meadows here.
Overnight in the loggia

In the morning, a short walk to the village of Lobuche. It is located in a high-mountain zone, except for grass, almost nothing grows here and the air is cold even during the day.
After lunch, training, working with equipment. We practice climbing steep slopes using a jumar.
Overnight in the loggia

With the first rays of the sun, the ascent to the top of Kala Patar. The transition is not long, but along a confusing rocky path along the moraine of the Khumbu glacier, it takes an average of 2-3 hours. Ascent first to the village Gorak Shep and then another 2 hours to the top of Kala Patar, return to Lobuche. Rest.
Overnight in the loggia

Trekking towards Lobuche Base Camp. The trek will take about 3 hours. First along the trail and then along the rocks and cliffs to the plateau, altitude 5200 m.
Night in tents.

Leave at first light, no later than 7:00. From the base camp, the ascent takes an average of 5-6 hours, from the assault camp 3-4 hours, the descent to the base will take another 2 hours. From the assault camp, the trail goes to a snow-ice ridge, which gradually becomes very steep. The last 400 of the climb are on steep ice, here we will go on fixed ropes.
And now we’re at the peak. From the peak there is a panorama of Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Tabuche, Cholatse and other giant peaks. Descent to the base camp, rest and further down to the village of Dugla. Rest at 4600.

We return to our native village of Pangboche. Here we have internet, a warm shower and a soft bed. Rest in the forest area. Night in the loggia.

It’s hard to force ourselves, but today we will “do nothing”. A walk to the local gompa. Night in the loggia.

Preparing for the final exit. Night in the loggia.

The path goes along a trail, through a rhododendron forest, and then through meadows leads to a large field with tents, where in season there are more than 100-200 people. Interesting people, climbers from different parts of the world gather here. The path will take about 3 hours.
Overnight in tents.

At the guide’s discretion, today you can go straight to the camp at 5800. The ascent goes first along the path on the ridge of the old moraine and leads to the destroyed rocks of the Ama Dablam ridge. The path will take 3-4 hours.
Up to Camp 1 things are carried by porter, above Camp 1 we carry everything ourselves.
Overnight stay in tents.

We continue to climb to the goal. We come out on a path that goes among giant granite blocks. Exit to the overnight place. Total 2-3 hours.
Overnight stay in tents.

The transition to the main camp, from where they usually go on an assault, takes place just below the Amalablam ridge. At first there are horizontal sections with short steep steps of 1-2 meters. Movement along railings, on a sliding carabiner, on foot, in some places you need a jumar.
Before going to the rock tower, where the camp is located, there are two 30 m sections where you need to jumar on rocks at 50-70 degrees. On the last, key section, you need to use an additional gripping loop under your foot or a second jumar/clamp.
In Camp 1 we will leave some unnecessary things in bags, then we will carry everything we need for the assault ourselves. The tents will already be set up in Camp 2.
On average, this transition takes 4-6 hours. Overnight in tents on the top of the gendarme, where there are only places for 20 tents, so the capacity of the second camp is not large. We book places for tents in advance, this is important especially in season.

The ascent starts no later than 2:00. The ascent first goes along a rocky edge, then onto a snow-ice ridge. On average, the ascent to the summit takes 8-9 hours one way.
At the guide’s discretion, it is possible to spend the night in Camp III (height 6100), but then you will need to move the camp higher. The descent takes 4-5 hours, depending on your training and level of fatigue.

Descend along the ascent route first on ropes, we pass the 1st camp. In the first camp, porters will be waiting for us, who will take our bags with things. Then we go light. After a little rest in the BC, we go further down to Pangboche.
Overnight in the loggia.

Night in the loggia.

Night in the loggia.

Early morning flight Lukla – Kathmandu (about 35 minutes). Transfer to the hotel. Free time in Kathmandu.

Reserve day in case of bad weather and other circumstances.

Reserve day in case of bad weather and other circumstances.

Today you can plan your flight at any convenient time. Flight home.
Note:
The program is not final and may be adjusted depending on the weather, the condition of the participants and other factors.