Oleg Ivanchenko
Guide-graduate student of IFMGA (KMGA), mountain tourism instructor since 2006, mountaineering experience since 2008, working as a guide since 2008. Completed “first aid courses in isolated areas”, 2017 and 2019.
Among the TOP 60 most popular mountaineering experts in the world in 2025.
He made more than 20 ascents of Elbrus (mostly in winter).
His experience is participation in mountain, ski trips, climbing up to the 5th category of difficulty in the Crimea, the Carpathians, the Himalayas, Altai, the Caucasus, the Pamirs, the Tien Shan, as well as in various sports competitions. He takes an active part in the social activities of the sports and tourist club “Odessa”. He has extensive experience in organizing sports competitions, tourist rallies, quests.
Participation in mountain hikes 6 k.d. on the Central Tien Shan, leadership 5 Ph.D. in the Caucasus, Participation in a ski trip 4 k.d. in the Subpolar Urals.
Alpinism: leadership 3B difficulty category, participant 5B difficulty category.
From interesting ascents: solo ascent to. Ama Dablam (6850 m), according to the classics, 5А difficulty category, 2016, Nepal. Khan-Tengri (7005 m) according to the classics from the South, 5B difficulty category, 2014, Central Tien Shan. Pobeda Zapadnaya 5А, to 6500 m Central Tien Shan 2014. Lenin Peak 5А, through Razdelnaya up to 6200 m, 2010, Pamir.
Also: Aconcagua 2019, 2020; Ojos Del Salado 2018, 2019, 2020, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, Ecuador 2021, Orizaba, Mexico in 2021. Repeated ascents of the 6000 meters of Nepal from 2015 to 2021: Mera Peak, Island Peak, Amadablam, Tapa, Dormo Ree.
Nepal, Lhotse main (8516 m) – an oxygen-free attempt to climb up to 7900 m (deep snow above 1m did not allow climbing higher).
2023 – сlimbing Everest (8848 m) from Nepal, as a guide and organizer.
2024 – climbing Mount Denali (McKinley until 2015) (6190 m), Alaska
2024 – climbing Manaslu (8163 m), Nepal
2025 – climbing Mount McKinley (McKinley until 2015, Denali until 2025) (6190 m), Alaska, as a guide and organizer.
2025 – climbing Annapurna (8091 m), as a guide and organizer (reached 7600 m due to weather conditions)
2025 – climbing Everest (8,848 m) from Nepal, as a guide and organizer.
Favorite mountain area, country: Himalayas, Fann Mountains (Tajikistan), Chamonix (France).
Briefly about myself:
«It all started with the fact that tourism filled 2/3 of my life, except for sleep and study. And while still a student, I spent a total of 180 days in the mountains and on field trips. Hikes, instructor school, competitions all went together. Then work began to interfere with tourism, and I thought something needed to change. This is how “Extreme Guide” appeared. Then I realized that a guide in the mountains is a “seller of happiness.” I realized that “selling happiness” to people is my mission and calling. Now it’s hard to imagine myself in an office working in my specialty. But with two honors diplomas I could be a cool engineer…»
As a result, I have been involved in tourism and mountaineering for most of my life.
Hobbies: I take photo and make videos, they say it’s pretty good :). Yoga and kayaking at sea.
About Oleg: strong, Nordic, balanced character, enjoys photography and videography.
Life credo, basic principles at working with people: When traveling, it is important to be open to change, then you can better understand the country, the mountainous region where you came. Safety, adventure and a positive outcome for every member of the group.
